[Bonjoy]

Ailefroide
Albarracin
Alquezar - very sunny. Good for coldest months or if tufas wet at Rodellar
Annot
Arco
Baltzola
Berdorf
Buoux
Catalunya
Cavallers
Ceuse
Chateauvert
Chironico
Claret
Cresciano
Cuenca - looks polished sharp and nasty
Dolomites - mega for trad and via ferrata, rubbish for sport climbing
El Chorro - a very long drive. Only suitable for coldest months
Fontainebleau - never heard of it, fontainwhat?
Frankenjura
Freyr - vertical polished, old school
Gorge du Loup
Gorges du Tarn - too hot mid summer, possible to cold/wet in winter, very good in between
Gorges du Verdon
Hyltebergen
Interlaken
Kalymnos
Kjugekull
Lebak
Lehn
Les Eaux Claires
Lofoten
Magic Wood
Margalef
Meshia
Misja Pec
Montenejos
Montsant
Orpierre - a bit drab compared to nearby Ceuse
Pfalz
Rodellar - best months mid sept to early nov
Russan
Santalinya - very sunny, only suitable for oldest months
Sardinia - hard/expensive to get to by van!
Schlier Wasserfall
Seynes
Siurana
Sokoliki
St Leger
Sustenpass
Targassone
Terradets
Tete de Chien
Tetto di Sarre
Tres Pont - lots of shade good escape if too hot at Terradets
Val Di Mello
Venue
Volx - if you want to climb juggy caves Spain has many MUCH better ones than this
Voralpsee
Zillertal

[Paul B]

cheers bonners...if anyone has more to add then please quote 'the boy' 

[account_inactive]

Ailefroide - Don't bother with the bouldering, but the trad is good
Albarracin
Alicante - Whole region will be warmer in the winter.  Better for Nat but plenty in high grades too (think Forada,Sella,Gandia)
Alquezar - very sunny. Good for coldest months or if tufas wet at Rodellar
Annot
Arco
Baltzola
Berdorf - Large version of Font with grid bolting.  Worth looking at if you are in the area.  Gets VERY busy at weekends for obvious reasons
Buoux
Catalunya
Cavallers
Ceuse
Chateauvert
Chironico
Claret
Cresciano
Cuenca - looks polished sharp and nasty (Not the sectors that I have been too)
Dolomites - mega for trad and via ferrata, rubbish for sport climbing
El Chorro - a very long drive. Only suitable for coldest months
Fontainebleau - never heard of it, fontainwhat?
Frankenjura
Freyr - vertical polished, old school
Gorge du Loup
Gorges du Tarn - too hot mid summer, possible to cold/wet in winter, very good in between. Very cold in winter
Gorges du Verdon
Hyltebergen
Interlaken
Kalymnos
Kjugekull
Lebak
Lehn
Les Eaux Claires
Lofoten
Magic Wood
Margalef
Meshia
Misja Pec
Montenejos
Montsant
Orpierre - a bit drab compared to nearby Ceuse
Pfalz
Rodellar - best months mid sept to early nov
Russan
Santalinya - very sunny, only suitable for oldest months
Sardinia - hard/expensive to get to by van! Also not as friendly or good climbing as Spain/France/Italy
Schlier Wasserfall
Seynes
Siurana - Good base for the other crags in the area.  Limited in the easy grades
Sokoliki
St Leger
Sustenpass
Targassone
Terradets
Tete de Chien - Is this Font?
Tetto di Sarre
Tres Pont - lots of shade good escape if too hot at Terradets
Val Di Mello - Very beautiful valley with everything to throw yourself at (bouldering/trad/sport/big wall).  Don't go when the festival is on
Venue
Volx - if you want to climb juggy caves Spain has many MUCH better ones than this
Voralpsee
Zillertal

[Tommy]

Ailefroide - Don't bother with the bouldering, but the trad is good
Albarracin
Alicante - Whole region will be warmer in the winter.  Better for Nat but plenty in high grades too (think Forada,Sella,Gandia)
Alquezar - very sunny. Good for coldest months or if tufas wet at Rodellar
Annot
Arco - not bad, but nothing special. Nice steep climbing, but quite humid mid summer. Lovely town and cafes
Baltzola
Berdorf - Large version of Font with grid bolting.  Worth looking at if you are in the area.  Gets VERY busy at weekends for obvious reasons
Buoux - didn't excite me that much. Too much faffing around on a million limestone pockets for my liking
Catalunya
Cavallers
Ceuse
Chateauvert
Chironico
Claret
Cresciano
Cuenca - looks polished sharp and nasty (Not the sectors that I have been too)
Dolomites - mega for trad and via ferrata, rubbish for sport climbing. Yes ACE via ferrata!
El Chorro - a very long drive. Only suitable for coldest months
Fontainebleau - never heard of it, fontainwhat?
Frankenjura
Freyr - vertical polished, old school
Gorge du Loup
Gorges du Tarn - too hot mid summer, possible to cold/wet in winter, very good in between. Very cold in winter
Gorges du Verdon - mega. Totally brilliant. Seek out the less travelled parts. Good for scary slacklines!
Hyltebergen
Interlaken
Kalymnos
Kjugekull
Lebak
Lehn
Les Eaux Claires
Lofoten
Magic Wood
Margalef
Meshia
Misja Pec
Montenejos
Montsant
Orpierre - a bit drab compared to nearby Ceuse
Pfalz
Rodellar - best months mid sept to early nov
Russan
Santalinya - very sunny, only suitable for oldest months
Sardinia - hard/expensive to get to by van! Also not as friendly or good climbing as Spain/France/Italy
Schlier Wasserfall
Seynes
Siurana - Good base for the other crags in the area.  Limited in the easy grades
Sokoliki
St Leger - Excellent. Nice and steep, mellow place and good parking. Nice stream.
Sustenpass
Targassone
Terradets
Tete de Chien - Is this Font?
Tetto di Sarre
Tres Pont - lots of shade good escape if too hot at Terradets
Val Di Mello - Very beautiful valley with everything to throw yourself at (bouldering/trad/sport/big wall).  Don't go when the festival is on. Second this - totally amazing. Go any time after end of April and before Oct
Venue
Volx - if you want to climb juggy caves Spain has many MUCH better ones than this
Voralpsee
Zillertal

[neil h]

ditch the sustenpass for sure, the area is amazing but you will out climb it in a couple of hours, its a long way up the pass for not a lot of gain, If you are in swiss for a holiday then climb there but a road trip forget it there are much better places


ditch sardinia as well, the ferry is very expensive, save it for when you are back home and get a £20 flight out there instead.


dont come to font, cause i dont want you to burn me off 


enjoy

[Nibile]

sardinia is probably one of the best destinations for sport climbing in europe. they keep discovering crags, and i mean crags with 150 routes. the ferry isn't very expensive if you go out of the summer months, and if you book smartly. from piombino (south of florence) you can get to sardinia for quite cheap, staying in your van during the night crossing, so eating and sleeping properly and comfy.
if you go paul, be sure to call me because a very close friend of mine lives there and does that thing with the rope.

[Paul B]

cheers people! I'll go through this thread throwing karma left right and centre soon!

[account_inactive]

sardinia is probably one of the best destinations for sport climbing in europe. they keep discovering crags, and i mean crags with 150 routes. the ferry isn't very expensive if you go out of the summer months, and if you book smartly. from piombino (south of florence) you can get to sardinia for quite cheap, staying in your van during the night crossing, so eating and sleeping properly and comfy.
if you go paul, be sure to call me because a very close friend of mine lives there and does that thing with the rope.

It's true that there is a vast amount of climbing on the Island.  I didn't find any of it to be of world class quality like the other crags mentioned.  No offence Nibile

[Paul B]

Tete de Chien - Is this Font?

Monaco, see the fantastic pic earlier on in this thread.

[neil h]

sardinia is probably one of the best destinations for sport climbing in europe. they keep discovering crags, and i mean crags with 150 routes. the ferry isn't very expensive if you go out of the summer months, and if you book smartly. from piombino (south of florence) you can get to sardinia for quite cheap, staying in your van during the night crossing, so eating and sleeping properly and comfy.
if you go paul, be sure to call me because a very close friend of mine lives there and does that thing with the rope.

I love sardinia, I was going to go back thid month but other things and all, last time there, I just spent 6 days going north to south, no guide book, just a rope and a bouldering mat, I had one of my best holidays

[lagerstarfish]

The crag on the Tete de Chien above Monaco (near Nice) is called La Turbie - some topos and pics on Nice-Climb.com 
It would be far too hot to climb here in summer, but late autumn to early spring would be..... Nice 

Ceuse is fine in the middle of summer as long as you get the walk in done in the morning before it gets too hot (45mins, uphill). There are easier routes for Nat that are pretty good fun. Left hand end of the crag is in shade in the morning, right in the afternoon/evening.

If you do end up near Sustenpass, it would be nice to do some of the easy multipitch sport routes on the granite slabs (Grimsel pass). It's an ace feeling pading your way up those big sheets of rock, way up in the air protected by nice safe bolts with great scenery all around and because it's slabs you don't get tired. Summer venue.

[Jaspersharpe]

Buoux - didn't excite me that much. Too much faffing around on a million limestone pockets for my liking

NNFN! Absolute fucking heresy. You have to go to Buoux Paul. It's fucking awesome and there's a lot more to the climbing there than just pulling on pockets (not that there's anything wrong with that!). I might be biased having climbed about 250 routes there but I love everything about the place.

Volx - if you want to climb juggy caves Spain has many MUCH better ones than this

I agree. Volx is quite shit but worth a day if it's raining if just to have a go on Theoreme and Terminator/Maginot Line/Super Plafond. There's some history there.

Orpierre - a bit drab compared to nearby Ceuse

Yeah not a patch on Buoux or Ceuse. I wouldn't bother personally.

[Jaspersharpe]

Buoux 8c:



No Euro trip can be complete without a visit to Bout De Monde. You will crush there Paul...........

[Paul B]

Tres Pont - lots of shade good escape if too hot at Terradets

Do you know where we can find more info on Tres pont? Google isn't throwing up anything 

[neil h]

Tres Pont - lots of shade good escape if too hot at Terradets

Do you know where we can find more info on Tres pont? Google isn't throwing up anything  

http://tresponts.blogspot.com/2005/11/sector-de-tres-ponts.html

[neil h]

also this its 40 meg, but got everything you need for tres pont and surrounding area

http://www.puiseux.name/loisirs/topos/pdf/Topo-AltUrgel-2.pdf

[Paul B]

hero

[neil h]

hero

tip, try searching in spanish or french depending  on your destination, I found these in under 2 minutes 

[Doylo]

buoux is ace,not as many 8 s as say your nu skool spanish crag but theres enough.the routes have that sense of history too plus theres a lot of 6 s there for nat to try having said that these are often nails. volx is worth a look for a day or two as a change from buoux as its not too far.if the ferry does work out not too expensive to sardinia i d be heading to isili.didn t get on anything too hard but the main sector looked outstanding!

[neil h]

defo., bouox is tops and classic, and as doylo says not far from volx, we did a day trip to volx just to do a few of the classic lines, its ace def worth going to, steep jug pulling greatness

[Paul B]

historical crags are in for me. Buoux is definitely staying on the list (don't fret Jasper).

[Jaspersharpe]

Glad to hear it! As Doylo says there are TONS of great routes in the sixes. Just watch out for the slab cruxes.........

[neil h]

Glad to hear it! As Doylo says there are TONS of great routes in the sixes. Just watch out for the slab cruxes.........

I got well and truely spamked on a 6b one of them slabs, big run out at the top with a desperate crux for the chain

[Paul B]

Shhh! she's reading this now!



I've thrown all of the crags listed on a map and now I'm well and truly boggled! Throw in conditions and planning a route doesn't seem very straightforward!

[neil h]

 


will be in annot next week, will let you know if its wirth a visit