[Paul B]

We're currently in Siurana and could do with some help:

Today it was blisteringly stupidly hot for November, where's best to climb at when its like that?

Secondly which sectors are the best (we're looking for anything from F6-F8 but we're getting pretty picky in terms of quality!)?

Thirdly, does anyone have a good sequence for the small roof section of Anabolica 'cos I reckon mine is cr*p.

Thanks and sorry if its shit weather in the Uk.

[Adam Lincoln]

Can't remember exact sequence but this is what i did 

[robertostallioni]

I have some 10 year old beta I could dredge....
Left hand into obvious high left hold a la Adam, then 3 right hand movemiento's. Firstly to a thin pinch(or a triangle), then to a triangle(or a thin pinch) then over to the sinker pocket. Basically at 3 oclock, 1 oclock then 12 oclock!! Small foot movements may also be involved. Don't go all the way out left after the small roof to the off route rest unless you have a beret.

this looks like second RH hold, going for 3rd.....


Obvious 3rd RH pocket, toe on triangle??

[SA Chris]

Some shit 13 year old beta, but I am sure there is a shady section in a gully to the right of Anabolica Sector with some OK 6s and 7s. Buggered if I can remember exact location or route names though.

[Paul B]

Cool however if you're saying the rest is off route then its a shit, artificially hard route, you have to go a bit left to go out right anyway?

My sequence was toss but ended up in the same position.

[robertostallioni]

Cool however if you're saying the rest is off route then its a shit, artificially hard route, you have to go a bit left to go out right anyway?

There was a decent rest on a couple of jugs out left after this move(cheers Al)...


although further left still(maybe 2 metres more) was a big gay off route pod-thing...where you could literally get the cigar out. Recall using this was a)rightly frowned upon and b)not necessary, felt 8a without it I guess and c)didn't occur to me at the time.

Disclaimer-This gay rest gets further away the older I get, so maybe it is on-route after all. Have you tried La Cara at Olla? Harder for those of diminutive stature but mandatory for a gent of your Cal-Ibre.

[Paul B]

The jug you're thinking of is about ooooh 20cm from a kneebar, you'd have to have blinkers on to ignore it as you have to move left to go up then back right. I'm pretty sure it is the pod you're thinking of though.

You should have seen some of the Frenchies at Margalef, the bolts in front of their faces certainly weren't on their routes!

We didn't try much at Siurana, we arrived, waited for the sun to come off it as it was 19'C, did one 6c+ that felt nails and then I got straight on Annabolica. We left the next day as the weather is set to continue like that. I'll take the recommendation on board but Morpho will shoot me down no doubt.

More reccomendations still needed, which sectors are good?

(We're in Albarracin now taking a quick break from ropes, its only 15' here)

[Doylo]

The rest thing is bollocks as the top is only 6c+ you've done the meat of the route by far.

[Paul B]

looking at this:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jandiro/3239708802/#

I can now see the full on chill out ledge further left, thankfully that isn't it.

Doyle, I had to fully f*ckin launch at the top to get the jugs you lanky c*nt.

[robertostallioni]

Yep. Still not lost it yet then...Fantastic 8a+ next to La rambla, starting up an arse crack if the memory is to be further believed. 

La Cara was drainpipe tufa pinching then a diagonal jump to a sinker hueco. Remember the draw next to the jump is often removed as you WILL grab it instead of doing the jump. Then put it in yourself. (Doylo may be able to clarify if this is also bollocks) 

[Paul B]

Cheers Stallion!

Any other recommendations, 6's a d 7's?

[Doylo]

La Cara was drainpipe tufa pinching then a diagonal jump to a sinker hueco. Remember the draw next to the jump is often removed as you WILL grab it instead of doing the jump. Then put it in yourself. (Doylo may be able to clarify if this is also bollocks) 

Yep defo more bollocks 
Le cara is indeed fantastic, if your worried about the fall when you get to the crux and your thinking of grabbing the draw you need to go on a manning up course immediately

[Paul B]

In all seriousness after being completely content to lob off onto a cord regardless of bolt spacing etc. I found myself being an utter pussy today above a pad.

For anyone thats interested though do not take a brand new moon pad anywhere near a roof problem, you'd be better off hitting the floor.

[robertostallioni]

Doyle has spoken.

Mandragora 7b+(not the 3/4 height fruitfulness at 7b)

Ok, thats it, I'm spent.

[Paul B]

and I'm off for beer and some food in the form of deep fried potatoes if this damn country has anywhere open at 19.30? 

Thanks...

[Doylo]

Ok, thats it, I'm spent.

I bet you say that to all the boys!

[Stubbs]

For anyone thats interested though do not take a brand new moon pad anywhere near a roof problem, you'd be better off hitting the floor.

They work pretty well upside down when they are fresh and a little too hard still! Perhaps if you weighed more the foam would deform a little 

[north_country_boy]

La Cara was drainpipe tufa pinching then a diagonal jump to a sinker hueco. Remember the draw next to the jump is often removed as you WILL grab it instead of doing the jump. Then put it in yourself. (Doylo may be able to clarify if this is also bollocks) 

Not Morpho as many of midget/dwarf/pixie/hobbit stature have done it.....

However the 'Hueco' has also been described as 'Like a Dogs mouth' by others......

Its a good route whatever, wish it hadn't been so bloody windy and wet when two weeks ago! 

For the List: Mandragora, Papagora, El Muerte del Sponsor (and excellent 6c arete next to it), Sayonara baby, Ay Mamita, Prado del rey, viagraman, pota d'elephant, bistec de biceps.......

[Paul B]

cheers Dan.

[Paul B]

Unfortunately we're approaching the final stint of our trip and our minds are starting to shift to bouldering.

Currently we're heading along the south of France enjoying what remains of the sun and ticking off a few smaller crags which we wanted to visit earlier but were roasting hot but after that we were thinking of going to:

Switzerland
Zillertal
Font

But two of those destinations add a crazily big loop of a drive into things which is not only time consuming but expensive.
Is there any chance of us being able to boulder at Cresc/Ticino at this time of year or are we going to spend a week stuck in the van, damp and angry?
Does the same apply for Zill?
From the weather forecast I'm starting to think so, we don't really want to get to Font too early because crap weather there will leave us temptingly close to Nats folks and creature comforts.
Thanks for all the help so far, it is greatly appreciated.

[Doylo]

Is there any chance of us being able to boulder at Cresc/Ticino at this time of year or are we going to spend a week stuck in the van, damp and angry?

Of course you can boulder there its winter, but its a mountainous region so rain (and snow)  is always possible. Could be mint though

[Paul B]

i seem to remember you pacing around the kitchen of our Gite after having a less than ideal trip. Remember we'll be in a van.

[Doylo]

i seem to remember you pacing around the kitchen of our Gite after having a less than ideal trip. Remember we'll be in a van.

Was the most snow there since records began, i was unlucky, check some long term forecasts before you go.

[Paul B]

I am, it looks like 80mm of rain the day before we get there, then clear ish for about 3.

[erm, sam]

What about Annot? In the latest Urban Climber it says it is 45 mins from Nice airport ( to give a general area, thats in the South of France innnit?) and pretty good... online guide at abloc.org, apparently. Never been, like.