[Paul B]

From this topic a few of you will be aware that I'm now just about free to go on a trip for 6 months. The problem is that we'll be leaving in less than a month and hadn't been planning this at all. I was hoping that the good people of UKB (especially Bonjoy!) could help me out with some crag knowledge, route knowledge, stealth camping opportunities etc for:

July,Aug,Sep,Oct,Nov,Dec,Jan

That way I can put together a list of places to visit in each month and I won't have my blinkers on when picking crags or turn up completely out of season. Nat and I are both going and our abilities are somewhat different but I think she'll progress fast on a trip. We're looking to do both Sport and Bouldering so all beta is welcome. Thanks in advance.

 

[Johnny Brown]

Thats a long, long time, so I'd say work with the seasons, ie head north for the summer before you head south. There might not be much sport, and the bouldering isn't brilliantly documented, but I doubt anyone would regret a trip round NW Scotland and the Hebrides. You could maybe then head over to Norway and work your way south via Sweden, Denmark and Germany, end up in Spain for Chrimbo then font in jan?

[dave]

jbs onto something there - lofoten should be a badass place to check out in midsummer - take a rack too. there's that granite bouldering sweden. it sounds like a great chance to do something other than the cliched frankenjura/magicwood/font/costa del whatever that most people seem to do. maybe try and search out the austria bouldering, there's a shit load of it spread around. I imaging september would be a good time to hit maltatal, zillertal etc.

[Paul B]

its pointless taking a rack, she just hasn't got the experience for it.

[dave]

you might be able to hook up with some itinerant euro though for a quick multipitch route while she catches some rays. or while she's asleep, since you get 24hr daylight in lofoten in the summer.

[Johnny Brown]

You don't think a 6 month trip might allow an opportunity to get that experience? How else is she likely to get it?

...Or are you scared she might love it and belaying you on 8m power clip-ups might look less appealing than summiting a sun-soaked, sea-surrounded granite spire in Arctic Norway?

[Jaspersharpe]

Met some Swedish guys who were staying at Neil's place in Font last week. They said the granite bouldering there was really good and wrote down a couple of websites for me on a piece of paper which I put in some jeans which I think my Mrs has subsequently washed. If I can salvage anything I'll let you know.

[Paul B]

You don't think a 6 month trip might allow an opportunity to get that experience? How else is she likely to get it?

...Or are you scared she might love it and belaying you on 8m power clip-ups might look less appealing than summiting a sun-soaked, sea-surrounded granite spire in Arctic Norway?

F*cks sake Adam, I know because I've talked to her about it and she doesn't fancy it, she hasn't been climbing all that long and her introduction was less than smooth, I've tried getting her out on the grit tradding but she hasn't yet expressed an interest and I'm not going to force it. You often forget that I'm not a trad dodger, in fact when Mawson went to uni I ended up getting the same apprenticeship as he did from his dad, being dragged up every allen and bancroft route he could find and spending my summers tradding in the lakes with a young irish trad superstar . So give me a break (drumroll).

[dave]

Met some Swedish guys who were staying at Neil's place in Font last week. They said the granite bouldering there was really good and wrote down a couple of websites for me on a piece of paper which I put in some jeans which I think my Mrs has subsequently washed. If I can salvage anything I'll let you know.

this could be one of em etc?

http://www.kjuge.nu/kjuge/eng/

[Jaspersharpe]

I believe so. My googling skills have deserted me today!

[Paul B]

Met some Swedish guys who were staying at Neil's place in Font last week. They said the granite bouldering there was really good and wrote down a couple of websites for me on a piece of paper which I put in some jeans which I think my Mrs has subsequently washed. If I can salvage anything I'll let you know.

this could be one of em etc?

http://www.kjuge.nu/kjuge/eng/

wasn't there a video of Moon there somewhere?

[Fj]

I've just been to Gothenburg for a bouldering trip and had a good day on Hono (pronounced Herno)
I'm recovering from injury so didn't get much done but there are loads of areas and some quality lines there.
This is a classic 7b+ which stays shady most of the day and from the 4 areas we visited was by far the best looking line. Sorry cant remember the name.


apologies to non-facebookers.

Let me know if you want any more info and I'll try to help.

[Paul B]

thanks

[chillax]

Good article about bouldering in Sweden on the front page of http://www.theshortspan.com/. You could drop Michael (the author) a mail, I'm sure he wouldn't mind dispensing some beta. Hope you enjoy the trip.

[Nibile]

hey paul!!!
listen, i think this trip is also a great opportunity to visit small places thare are not worth a trip from uk per se. i highly recommend a few days, one week could do, in the dolomites, for bouldering (sella pass, falzarego pass, tre cime di lavaredo), sport (everywhere!!!) and easy, bolted multi pitch routes (torri di sella, etc.) that could provide a great experience for her especially. maybe also spending three days hiking trough the brenta dolomites, you can start from madonna di campiglio and end molveno. obviously in june, july or september/october.
very important: avoid the whole arco and dolomites area in late july, august, it's a hell of crowds!!!
i also recommend the cinque torri area: short powerful routes up to 8a+ and alot (alot) of easy and bolted multipitch routes.

bouldering wise i'm sure that the gottardo pass is awesome in the heat of the summer!!!

you may have heard about erto crag in the north of italy: well to me it's shit. it's just famous for its hard, stamina routes, but it's dirty and depressing. still in the north there are dozens of crags, prolly one of the best ones being ceredo (near verona), a winter destination. then all the ferentillo area (near perugia) or even sperlonga, a big cave on the sea close to napoli.
oh well and finale ligure.
and meschia for some sandstone boulders!!!

then, from my past experiences, i'd stay around ticino as long as you can from october on. from there you are closer to font and it's endless.
more: manage to go to barcelona!!! the city is amazing and there's lots of climbing around. in every place that i've mentioned you can easily park a van if you are in stealth mode.
this is just a small idea without too much thinking, but i can do better with some thinking.
would be nice to have you both here, for some bouldering, art and tripes!!!

i think you can also play it with the vibes, you can easily cover long distances driving while taking a couple of days off. on this matter i'd evaluate very carefully the lofoten option because it's a hell of a way up there, and i think it needs alot of time to be worth it.
damn i'm envious now!!!

[hairich]

hey paul.the last time le-ann and me tied in was in val di mello 5 years ago.loads of roadside sport crags at all grades.did some great lines.as you know the bouldering is first rate.amazing place to hang out too.think nat would love it.

if you want more catch me at the works

[cofe]

i'll second nibile on the dolomites paul. you might not want to climb there, but it's a beautiful place to spend a few days hiking or questing around checking out some of the war-era shit. certainly go check out the tre cima. amazing.

[Paul B]

cool, thanks Nibs and Cofe. Keep the shizzle coming people!

[Johnny Brown]

If Nat doesn't fancy trad, fair enough. But that's hardly the reasoning that came through your original post... I'd still bung in a rack of wires and cams, hardly take up a lot of room do they?

Defintely speak to Keith about some of the NF trip venues, especially the Czech venue. Not the usual spot folk go to, but he seemed to think it was the best place they went by a mile.

[Jaspersharpe]

Agree with Nibs about Barcelona. It's a truly amazing place and Savassona's just up the road which is on my must go to list. Combining a touristy / beach / sightseeing / drinking / eating few days in one of the most interesting cities in Europe with some crushing of sandstone boulders sounds just the ticket.

[dave]

other shit:

the non-albarracin bouldering spots near madrid
sardinia - i assume there's a car ferry you can catch from somewhere
slovenia - there's some bouldering around here somewhere. think there might also be some sport in croatia.

[Johnny Brown]

I was assured by a slovenian, whilst he ran around Porth Ysgo like a kid in a sweetshop, 'there is no bouldering in Slovenia'. When pressed, he conceded that there was some shitty little limestone outcrops that they bouldered on. The sport climbing and big mountain (all limestone) are very good, though after my last sentence I daresay half this forum is booking bouldering trips.

[dave]

you damn right.

(here is an old cragx article about slovenia bouldering)

[Bonjoy]

Hi Paul. Am not ignoring the info request, just a bit busy. Will post something later or tomorrow.

[Paul B]

Hi Paul. Am not ignoring the info request, just a bit busy. Will post something later or tomorrow.

thanks bee-man.