UKBouldering.com

Pockets (Read 3127 times)

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
Pockets
May 08, 2009, 10:19:07 am
So i was hanging from my beastmaker last night, and found that not only am i much 'stronger' on front 2 than middle 2, but i can actually hand for longer on back two than middle two. I think this is because of the way my tendons on ring and little work, ring f. does just not like to be separated from little f. so middle always feels tweaky (same for me on any grip when i drop my pinky). what is up with this? anyone the same/ know how i can iron it out?

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8175
  • Karma: +368/-38
#1 Re: Pockets
May 08, 2009, 10:25:00 am
What are your finger lengths like?  Is your middle or ring finger the longest?

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
#2 Re: Pockets
May 08, 2009, 10:26:23 am
Pretty normal i think, middle is longest.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9780
  • Karma: +269/-4
#3 Re: Pockets
May 08, 2009, 12:30:58 pm
What are your finger lengths like?  Is your middle or ring finger the longest?

is this the medical way of asking if he's gay;D

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#4 Re: Pockets
May 08, 2009, 12:47:40 pm
What are your finger lengths like?  Is your middle or ring finger the longest?

is this the medical way of asking if he's gay?  ;D

Primarily the ratio of index to middle finger length is correlated to testosterone exposure during fetal development (which in turn may have an effect on sexual orientation, thus the finger ratio can be used as a proxy).

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4343
  • Karma: +351/-26
#5 Re: Pockets
May 08, 2009, 07:11:57 pm
If you watch Buoux 8c (which you can't, as I have your copy) Jerry front 2s his way up La Rose, I've met a couple of others who prefer front 2. I tried doing some problems font 2 the other night but found it much more tweaky than middle 2, but then I don't seem to have your injury prone fingers.
Being stronger on back 2 definitely makes you a freak.
As for ironing it out - I'll happily kick you in the balls if I see you using front 2. That should motivate you to train the middle ones.

St Hubbins

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 294
  • Karma: +10/-1
  • Where the magic happens...
#6 Re: Pockets
May 12, 2009, 08:01:02 pm
I'm same as you. Do you also have gigantic balls?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal