[Teaboy]

This is a route that has always intrigued me because of its exotic (for Wales) grade of E4 7a and I noticed that in the new guide it has kept its grade. It was done around the same time that he did Nicks Sexual Problem giving that Eng 7b so has anyone here done it? what's it like? It looks a lovely bit of rock, I'm similarly attracted to Dracula Spectacular whihc I'm far more likely to do, anyoneon done this?

[JohnM]

I went up there with Caff a while back.  He did it and I got pretty close.  It feels save to work the moves but it depends how much you trust the two pegs.  The first peg can be clipped by climbing up to right and reaching across and down climbing and it is worth backing up the first peg with a friend low down.  This wouldn't stop you hitting the ground if one of the pegs was to snap but would prevent a longer fall down the slope below.  The English 6a top section and top out is protected by a small/mirco wire which Caff casually removed with his foot as he topped out so that he didn't have to set up an ab for retrieval.  As for the actual climbing it is really good and good clean rock.  Quite tenuous moves to stand up into small undercuts at the start and reach out to the arete and a hard move to an unpositive face hold further up the arete.  Would probably get about Font 7b/V8 as a boulder problem.  Well worth checking out!     

[soapy]

likes his buell now..

[Houdini]

I've done Dracula spectacular.  And top-roped Vlad.  Both are very nice. 


Dinas Bach is a lovely spot w/ too many hidden gems to mention.