[Pantontino]

It finally went down yesterday evening (just as a perfect full moon rose across the bay - I mention that just to confirm Paul b's suspicions that I am a sentimental old fool)



There she blows on the skyline!

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=393

[dave]

that looks awesome fucking welles. i always thought there must be something worth climbing on anglesey.

[Pantontino]

i always thought there must be something worth climbing on anglesey.

I suppose there is that big sea cliff near Holyhead as well, can't quite remember its name at the moment. Gog-something, I think...

[BenF]

The problem with that crag Simon, is that your pad gets soaked and can even float away.  And it's hard to brush the upper holds even with a long clip stick.

[Falling Down]

What's the sport crag that's referenced in the report Si?

[JohnM]

Awesome, I had heard rumours about this place with sightings of stashed pads and chalked up holds!  I'll be there tomorrow to try and do it!

[Pantontino]

What's the sport crag that's referenced in the report Si?

There are 5 crags along this section of coast, all covered in the Gogarth North guide. They are mostly sport, but with several trad crack lines. First developed in 1990 by Ian Lloyd Jones and Phil Targett, they were re-equipped last year by Ian and Phil (Ground Up donated £265 towards the bolts).

Numerous extra routes were added, and just as the guide was going to print the Upper Tier of Angler's Zawn (the clean white walls you can see in the pic above) were developed. These routes are probably the best of all the Benllech crags.

6 extra new routes were added in the last month or so - I took new crag shots yesterday and will be constructing an updated pdf guide for this wall soon - this will be available for free download on the Ground Up site.

The grade range is F5+ - F7b, with most routes in the F6s. It's not the new Pen Trwyn or anything (far from it), but you can have a fun day here. Fedw Fawr, further down the coast (to the east) is also worth a look. There are two sport crags here.

And there are also some little visited but good trad crags further to the west. Craig Badrig appears to be a kind of sandstone and Porthllechog has an impressive wall with routes in the E3 - E5 range.

[slackline]

Cool, heading over to pop my Gogarth cherry tomorrow 

Picked up a copy of the guide and have some feedback, but want to try it in the field before hand.

Hope the forecast improves a bit, light showers Friday/Saturday at the moment, hopefully be able to do some easy stuff though.

[dave]

i always thought there must be something worth climbing on anglesey.

I suppose there is that big sea cliff near Holyhead as well, can't quite remember its name at the moment. Gog-something, I think...

whatever sugar, I'm not falling for that one again.

[Falling Down]

Thanks Si for a detailed response .. <note to self... buy guidebook>

[hairich]

omg that looks amazing.terrible looking venue tho.glad im not there at easter to try them all

[Doylo]

nice one jonny boy. me and the mule found these boulders in May last year but never got round to going back, looks good.

[Pantontino]

I've just been reading out directions to Superfurrymonkey on the phone - he is walking in to the crag now. 

Spoke to Nodder last night - my suspicions that other people had become aware of the roof were well founded. He said Mat Smith had tipped him off about a chalked up roof line with stashed pads 2 months ago! Nodder nearly went for a look - thank god he didn't!

I think people approaching the sport crag have been using our descent path, thus walking straight past the front of the roof. No wonder word had got round.

[Doylo]

Me and mule actually went to check out a limestone roof above the crags after a tip off from Tony Schelmerdine, turns out it weren't great and was in someones garden. Then we turned our attention to the coast, could see potential but never got round to going back.

[superfurrymonkey]

Yes and I can honestly say it's worth a visit.  Got a good sequence together and am psyched to get back and get it done. 

[superfurrymonkey]

Actually truth be told JohnM got the sequence worked out and came pretty close to nailing it.

[chummer]

nice one Dolo la,  super furry. Seems folk have been sniffing around these for a while, tis funny how many potencial blocs we spy out or get tipped off about but never get around to working, this one is a plum and on Anglesey  !
 How was the seepage today sfm, did you try the other probs?

[chummer]

  fuck a duck, just realised sfm is you Jamie, classic, just noticed your photo! Glad you enjoyed your day down there bud, nice spot eh?.You boys out there tomorra? I see thats Liquid Ambar on yours Doylo, good effort on the rebolting, fuckin ay! New matting for the mill soon, ready your trainin circuits Doylo..

[superfurrymonkey]

  It is a very nice spot would be very nice on a summers evening I reckon! Got the other two problems done funny thing is I found plan b harder than the V6!  From the photos on NWB it looks like John came up with a different sequence, where you have gone with your RH from the low crimp we were rolling over with our LH actually I'm intrigued to see what sequences you and Simon came up with!? Forecast looks crap tomorrow so another weekend in the cave looks on the cards me thinks 

[andy_e]

That looks amazing!

[JohnM]

Yeah a really good problem in a nice spot.  Whether it is comparable in quality to Jerry's Roof is debatable though.  I found the landing to be quite disconcerting.  My final sequence revolved around using two heal toe locks which made falling off more scary.  Felt harder than 7b but by the time I figured out a decent sequence I didn't have enough power for the link so it might feel 7b fresh.  Might head back in summer and take some fishing gear!

[chummer]

Good work John M, double heel toe locks; sounds funky! I used one for a couple of hand moves, two certainly would feel dodgy. With regard to the landing i had about 4 pads and a super close spot from Si which totally helps as you get higher making it super safe; on your own would be necky despite the patio. I actually thought the height gave the problem added 'feel' and like all problems like that it felt even more satisfying when completed, but obviously this doesn't relate if ya on your own or with only a couple of pads, fair play John! As for Si's comparisons to Jerry's I can see the likeness but then i would say that wouldn't i, some great moves and a stella line; mind you it's not caked in perma chalk or polished or by a road either(Nodder might have something to say about that..!)! Anyways, to conclude, I think if your gonna get the most out of a visit it's probably best with two of you and 3 or 4 mats. Nice one on gettin down there John  

[chummer]

Oh and as for the grade I agree with you, with a definite sequence  and without having to work it too much, 7b felt about right but it was only my second day outside since bustin my finger so I'm a little out of touch really.

[superfurrymonkey]

Actually truth be told JohnM got the sequence worked out and came pretty close to nailing it.

Jon I was with John giving John a very close spot Jon   

[JohnM]

Jon I didn't use a double heal toe lock!  I meant sequentially.  I used one out left to make a cross over and one down right on a big obvious foot hold to pull me in as I slapped up right to the long first joint edge before the final jugs.  I found that on the link I had to throw out to the far left of this hold to match in with my left hand as crossing though was too powerfull.  However everything in the vicinity of this hold and the jugs was soaking wet so it might be easier when dry.  Its just a shame it doesn't lead to a good top out, but it is a good find and good effort getting it done!