New Jerusalem gaston (Read 29213 times)

andy_e · March 09, 2009, 07:29:30 pm

Has anybody noticed if this hold has been improved or felt any bigger lately? It seems to me it has been- it both looks like it's been altered as well as it feeling easier than it used to. Anyone know anything or have the same opinion? It would be a shame if this great problem (which still felt like a great problem today) has been spoiled at all.

Johnny Brown · March 10, 2009, 09:09:40 am

Its a natural hold so I suspect improvement would be pretty obvious by eye. Are you getting strong at last Andi?

chappers · March 10, 2009, 04:12:19 pm

does this mean that you have used said gaston to reach the top of this boulder?

andy_e · March 10, 2009, 09:57:48 pm

Quote from: chappers on March 10, 2009, 04:12:19 pm

does this mean that you have used said gaston to reach the top of this boulder?

I did it first about a year ago (probably about a year before that time we were trying it after jee crushed zoo york), and did it twice yesterday for the camera, first go, and the hold felt a lot bigger and more positive than before so i dunno... it also looks different to in some of the photos on yorkshiregrit.com although they aren't exactly clear...

Quote from: Johnny Brown on March 10, 2009, 09:09:40 am

Are you getting strong at last Andi?

Maybe!

Paul B · March 16, 2009, 12:07:51 pm

Consensus yesterday was that this hold has definitely got a little bigger (people were discussing it without knowing about this thread). No foul play suggested, just soft wet rock and some brushing. It felt to me as if a lot of the grains on the hold were moving and it wouldn't surprise me if it keeps getting bigger. Any Leeds stabilisation experts out there?

Sorry Andi, I'm sure you'll get stronger one day

Will Hunt · March 16, 2009, 09:39:26 pm

Dont be daft. Whenever I see him nowadays he's carrying a skateboard and complaining that nobody understands him and that I should "stick it to the man". That ain't a strong look.

Was this for Sam, Andi?

Jim · March 16, 2009, 10:34:02 pm

I seem to remember this hold was fairly crumbly and soft so has probably worn away over time, Also the fact you have gotten stronger since you last tried it exacerbated the fact

big shout out to SF!

andy_e · March 16, 2009, 10:50:16 pm

Quote from: Will Hunt on March 16, 2009, 09:39:26 pm

Was this for Sam, Andi?

eh what?

So what's the consensus grade now? I'd probably say easy font 7a...

Paul B · March 17, 2009, 12:18:44 pm

you've got to be joking.

I think Font 6b morpho would be a more appropriate grade. One foot movement does not a hard problem make.

SA Chris · March 17, 2009, 12:38:36 pm

Consensus says.

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__new_jerusalem#gradevotedetails

Paul B · March 17, 2009, 12:39:44 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on March 17, 2009, 12:38:36 pm

Consensus says.

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/problem.html?id=caley__new_jerusalem#gradevotedetails

did you just ignore the rest of the thread?

SA Chris · March 17, 2009, 12:44:50 pm

No, I just used the word concensus to mean what it does in the dictionary.

Paul B · March 17, 2009, 12:48:39 pm

...and the problem has changed since those votes were made, hence new opinions.

SA Chris · March 17, 2009, 01:39:26 pm

precisely. What date did the problem change? Andi asked what the concensus grade is.

Paul B · March 17, 2009, 01:45:42 pm

Stop being a pedant, are you adding anything useful here?

Oli · March 17, 2009, 01:48:15 pm

Surely it doesn't matter, the valuable lesson we can learn here is that Andi is still weak. And that's the important bit.

SA Chris · March 17, 2009, 01:48:41 pm

Quote

Stop being a pedant, are you adding anything useful here?

No more than you are. Have you done it in current state? If so I take it all back and happily accept the point.

I would smite you back, but it's not worth it.

simes · March 17, 2009, 01:53:42 pm

Quote from: Paul B on March 17, 2009, 01:45:42 pm

Stop being a pedant, are you adding anything useful here?

Are you?

Paul B · March 17, 2009, 01:59:14 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on March 17, 2009, 01:48:41 pm

Quote
Stop being a pedant, are you adding anything useful here?

No more than you are. Have you done it in current state? If so I take it all back and happily accept the point.

I would smite you back, but it's not worth it.

yes, on sunday.

Dolly · March 17, 2009, 02:02:02 pm

kinell...... handbags
I was going to offer an opinion having been to Caley for the first time on Sunday and done the problem, but am a bit scared now

SA Chris · March 17, 2009, 02:04:16 pm

Please do, so a concensus can be reached

slackline · March 17, 2009, 02:10:52 pm

(Cheers Percy for the perfect GIF)

Jaspersharpe · March 17, 2009, 02:13:38 pm

Quote from: SA Chris on March 17, 2009, 01:48:41 pm

Have you done it in current state? If so I take it all back and happily accept the point.

Quote from: Paul B on March 17, 2009, 01:59:14 pm

yes, on sunday.

Classic.

Richie Crouch · March 17, 2009, 02:17:18 pm

From the photos on yg it looks a tad contrived and eliminate... unlike Harts Arete 1 handed, the 7ft dyno and Vitalite to name but a few

Dolly · March 17, 2009, 02:23:12 pm

Quote

Please do, so a concensus can be reached Smiley

maybe 6c ? maybe less but not more

I think however it is height dependant.
I could reach the break with my feet on the ledge

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z5l0ntQtrSWruHtS8V6MoQ?authkey=Gv1sRgCNXp58HWkcjiLg&feat=directlink

I think its harder if you're shorter