Albarracin Recommendations (Read 11090 times)

Paul B · February 17, 2009, 02:27:28 am

Well it looks like for once I'm going to go somewhere other than Font (probably in about a months time). I was hoping that some of you fine gents and gentesses would be kind enough to list any problems in Albarracin that you thought were particularly good for both Nat and I. On our last trip to Font she crushed the Marie Rose so anything similarly hard (8b?) for her would be good.

I've done a search and got some good information as to where to stay etc. We're thinking that a cabin in the camp-site might be the best idea combined with a fly/drive although being under 25 years of age the drive part means by wallet will get raped. I found this:

http://www.santablocona.nuspla.net/MES%20RESSENYES/Topos%20Albarracin.pdf

topo, it looks a little limited so I'm guessing I should splash out on the guide.

Any other beta welcomed.
Thanks
Paul

dave · February 17, 2009, 08:46:05 am

to be honest since the topo situation is so patchy, and half the areas aren't on any available topos anyway i'd just go and do whatever you see that looks good, and you'll end up doing all the best stuff anyway. I don't even know the names of most of the good stuff we did. the obvious classics are stuff like jabaloyas, the psychokiller roofs, wassame, a ciegas, but even if i hadn't have just listed these you'd end up doing them anyway. PM me if you need info on owt specific.

make sure you find the hidden bakery in the town, and the even more hidden butchers.

n_man · February 17, 2009, 09:50:39 am

Think core, think shoulders and think mantles. Forget finger strength and practice grunting.

dave · February 17, 2009, 09:53:43 am

P.S. the cabins at the campsite are nice and the only real viable accomodation option other than a cheap hotel or camping (unless you can find any of the few-and-far-between self catering stuff in the town). the cabins sell out quickly though, so if you're going in a months time I dare say they could already be booked up, so check before you pay for flights.

Paul B · February 17, 2009, 10:31:50 pm

Quote from: dave on February 17, 2009, 09:53:43 am

P.S. the cabins at the campsite are nice and the only real viable accomodation option other than a cheap hotel or camping (unless you can find any of the few-and-far-between self catering stuff in the town). the cabins sell out quickly though, so if you're going in a months time I dare say they could already be booked up, so check before you pay for flights.

Pretty flexible one dates, is there an email address to get hold of the campsite or is it phone only? I can't find one on the website.

dave · February 17, 2009, 11:04:44 pm

I think you need to phone them really. find someone who speaka de spanish and get em to phone for you, chances of landing an english speaker on the other end are slim.

Paul B · February 17, 2009, 11:10:50 pm

Thanks (yet again!)

Paul B · February 18, 2009, 12:25:39 am

F*ck me I might have to consider an alternative venue this is getting pricey:

Flights, 220 quid for the both of us
Log Cabins, 69 E/quid per night * 6 or 7
Car hire, £89/week + £15/day surcharge for being under 25

Travelling is seeming increasingly expensive.

dave · February 18, 2009, 08:46:48 am

just go to the churnet or back bowden for a week then - its pretty much the same.

Jaspersharpe · February 18, 2009, 09:39:18 am

Must admit we were put off a bit by the cost. The Mrs wasn't 100% sold on spending that kind of cash on yet another climbing trip rather than a beach, sun, more for kids to do etc etc holiday (much cheaper). The payoff being we're going to Font again plus a long weekend in Northumberland.

dave · February 18, 2009, 09:50:32 am

when we last went to albaquerque the cabin was between four of us which with the euro as it was meant it was costing about £8 a night each, and i've paid more than that in some UK campsites, so it was a bargain. plus carhire between 4 of you ain't much, and our flights were probably cheaper too - where were you looking to fly to paul? valencia is the closest or zaragoza, but both times we flew to madrid, often cheaper/more available flights and its a nice drive over the mountains.

fashionguru · February 18, 2009, 12:47:12 pm

Hello all,

You can find great deals on flights if you try hard enough, but the price when you get there because of the strength of the pound is something else.

I first went 2 years ago and then again this year pretty much the same week. Spent £250 extra this time just because of the exchange.

Saying that it was still good.

Only 2 of you going don't stay in the campsite huts get a hotel. Twin or double room €36.00.

The one I stayed at both times is at the far end of the town (furthest away from climbing) through the tunnel and right up the switch back hill/road. Cant remember the name but you have to park up at the top of the road as everyone else is, then follow the road into the town. The first house on the right is a hotel and a pension(think you get breakfast in the price of pension) t was good value and had small bath which was great after climbing.

As for food we just bought loads of stuff to eat at the crag but also made some great sarnies for evening meal as well.
Eating out can be a problem and expensive now with a very basic meal costing €11. Only place open in Jan was a little bar restaurant out towards truel after the gas station.

Hope that helps

Tony Simpson

cofe · February 18, 2009, 12:56:15 pm

Don't go over Easter. It's a massive tourist spot for spaniards during holiday periods and all the accom fills up.

They speak real spanish down there too. We got my dad to call up for us (fluent spanish) and he said it was like having a conversation with a machine gun.

Somebody's Fool · February 18, 2009, 01:02:15 pm

Quote from: cofe on February 18, 2009, 12:56:15 pm

Don't go over Easter. It's a massive tourist spot for spaniards during holiday periods and all the accom fills up.

They speak real spanish down there too. We got my dad to call up for us (fluent spanish) and he said it was like having a conversation with a machine gun.

Forgive me if I'm being thick, but what does this have to do with Jerry Moffat?

cofe · February 18, 2009, 01:11:41 pm

Quote from: Somebody's Fool on February 18, 2009, 01:02:15 pm

Quote from: cofe on February 18, 2009, 12:56:15 pm
Don't go over Easter. It's a massive tourist spot for spaniards during holiday periods and all the accom fills up.

They speak real spanish down there too. We got my dad to call up for us (fluent spanish) and he said it was like having a conversation with a machine gun.

Forgive me if I'm being thick, but what does this have to do with Jerry Moffat?

Jar Term, Toffy.

p.s. we've just published the autobiography of relatively handy, leicestershire-born rock climber jerry moffatt. buy it or else.

caedmon_m · February 21, 2009, 08:12:58 pm

If it's any help I made a (not very good) video about the climbing there... and some other spots around Madrid a good few years ago:

Most of the climbs are first ascents in the video as they'd only just started developing the area for bouldering.

The video's in three part, and Albarracin is probably not 'til the 2nd or even 3rd part?!

caedmon_m · February 22, 2009, 07:34:40 am

Hadn't realised it wasn't going to just give the link to YouTube... so I thought I'd post the other two parts as they're the ones with Albarracin in...

There you go...

chummer · February 22, 2009, 09:10:24 pm

There is also a DVD by these folks, http://www.barrabes.com, called 'Pinturas Buldestres'. If you can afford it i'd go, you'll love it, i mean, how many times do you get the chance to go to a new, bullet hard red sandstone bouldering area? It's fuckin great, not havin a guide kinda adds to it, as was said earlier, the classic problems are pretty obvious, you wont be able to get your rock shoes on fast enough. The topos are good just for directions to the main areas and for getting your bearings. As for the butchers and the bakers........it's the first time i've ever got back from a bouldering trip heavier than when i left.

chummer · February 22, 2009, 09:18:50 pm

that was a shite link, try this;http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/treemarcas.asp?marca_id=834

r-man · February 24, 2009, 07:08:30 pm

Just got back from a week in Albarracin. It was fantastic. Blue skies, red rock, brilliant problems. I was initially keen to get stuck into some harder things, but there are so many good problems it felt like a crime to seige anything. Instead I raced around trying to as much as possible. In warm sunshine. Sunshine! I'm so glad I didn't go to font instead.

There are something like 7 areas to visit (there are more but these are off limits at this time of year). Each area has between 50 and 200 problems, at a guess. Most are within a few minutes walk from the same car park, which is a few minutes drive from the campsite. Very convenient.

There's not much point recommending individual problems, there are so many great things to do. Lots of roofs and lots of aretes. Very few slabs.

It's probably worth getting the ebloc guidebook http://blog.rockrun.com/2008/12/review-ebloc-bouldering-in-spain.html - much better than the pdf topo.

The one area it doesn't cover is Tierra Media. If you can get someone to show you the way, this is worth a visit too. I heard there was more info in the climber's pub in the village, but we didn't check it out.

Other stuff - the local baker does brilliant bread. The local honey from the shop is great too. We did a big shop in Teruel (about an hour's drive away), which made food more affordable.

The observation point at Arrastradero is spectacular.

It's worth noting that some of the problems in the above videos are off-limits. You aren't supposed to climb anything visible from the road. This is part of the access agreement, and shouldn't be ignored.

On the subject of poooo - I'd heard a lot about the shit and the litter. Well I saw very little litter and no shit. Perhaps they have cleaned up?

dave · February 25, 2009, 11:01:12 pm

you saw no shit? i'm amazed. we saw spaniard climbers shitting in view of the road, never mind climbing within view of the road. glad you had a good trip.

Paul B · March 16, 2009, 02:48:45 pm

Finally got around to booking the hol the other night, april 20th til 27th from East Midlands to Valencia, flightes were £0.00 but somehow managed to cost about 130 for both of us when we added luxuries such as "bags".
Car hire wasn't that bad in the end: 90 quid for the week for a Ford Fiesta with A/C.
Now all I need to do is the pesky bank transfer to the campsite and workout how the hell I can send them one of those "fax" things. Why the f*ck don't they use email? nutters.

Norton Sharley · March 17, 2009, 03:34:33 pm

Go find this problem for starters, El something or other - Lord of the Flies in Spanish. Classic 7a SDS with a great 7b to the left too. Enjoy.

dave · March 17, 2009, 03:38:09 pm

i think me and jiggaman had a look at that. trivial but not unenjoyable jughauling to a terrible sloping topout. we passed on it.

r-man · March 17, 2009, 03:59:45 pm

Flashed it! Name is El Senor de las Moscas, 7A+ in the photo guide.