[Bonjoy]

Long time UKB readers might remember a couple of projects at Birchen that I repeatedly flagged up as good quality, reasonably doable objectives for the project hungry to try their luck at.
It’s a testament to just what a bunch of lazy arses you all are that it’s taken 3+ years for one of these to get climbed at a fairly modest 7b/+ and by a non-UKBer.
Bob Smith did the arete right of Gritstone Megamix on Tuesday and has called it HMS Daring. As I was working it with him I can confirm that it is indeed excellent and I’ll be going back as soon as I can to get it finished.
After a lot of fruitless effort trying to climb it on the right side we eventually figured the way to go was on the left. I won’t spoil your onsight any further by revealing any more beta.


This pic is from facebook so some of you might not be able to view it:

[dave]

birchen, birchen......hmmm, remind me, is that in the peak somewhere? i'm not surprised no-one went to do it, most people just don't go there.

the photos of this do look good.

[grimer]

despite the fact that I can see, I think, seven good problems in that pic alone.

[r-man]

That does look good, another reason to go back. I had a gander at it a few weeks ago, but ran out of time working through the easier stuff. First time I've been bouldering there and I was impressed. Time for a Birchen renaissance?



Didn't get a chance to check out the 7c's and 7c+s, any ukbers done these?

[Paul B]

tried it Jon, got shot down  (it was summer time)

[Adam Lincoln]

Might go for a play Saturday if i persuade people there!

[travs]

Is there a topo for all the new problems?

[r-man]

I used bonjoy's list and the rockfax peak east guide, plus ukclimbing and searching ukbouldering. Here's what I came up with:

First bit you get to is Hornblower area - from left to right:
6c Gritstone megamix
7b+ HMS Daring
7a Thing on a Spring (ss) - undercut to rail, then dyno
6b+ Oarsman - arete, better from ss
7a Trav into Hornblower
6c+ Hornblower - wall left of arete
7a+ Obstructive Pensioner - arete

50m left is Technical Genius Area - from right to left:
7a Technical Genius - Undercut wall, starting matched on flake
7a Kiss Me Arsee (block to the left)
7a Cabin Boy - dyno on quarried wall behind pinnacle
6c wall to right of Cabin boy
7b ss arete left of Kiss me Arsee

Further left is
6c  Howships Lacunae - Sitstart to Saltheart Foamfollower, from a pocket.
7a  The Pirate - Climb the highball bulge right of Poop Deck Crack

Then over to the right of the crag is harder stuff

On Copenhagen Wall
7c The Mermaid - Sitstart the roof from an obvious jug. Gain the lip and work left on slopers. A tough rockover leads to the break. Finish straight up.
7c+     Chasing the Dragon - On a boulder beneath Copenhagen Wall. Sitstart undercutting a large hole on the left. Reach an undercut and sloper, and throw right to a flake. Finish up the arete.

And
7c+     The Brigand  - Climb the wall right of Broadside. The crux is low, passing an overlap to a poor pocket and bottomless crack. A cheat stone may be needed for shorties.

[slackline]

  where are the three ships problems? 

[r-man]

On the three ships.

[slackline]

I walked into that one

Real shame sarcasm doesn't translate well over t'internet its about the only denomination of wit I can afford 

[Tommy]

Nice one Bonjoy - looks good! There are always plenty of areas out there for re-discovering. Thankfully....!!!

[Bonjoy]

I used bonjoy's list and the rockfax peak east guide, plus ukclimbing and searching ukbouldering. Here's what I came up with:

First bit you get to is Hornblower area - from left to right:
6c Gritstone megamix
7b+ HMS Daring
7a Thing on a Spring (ss) - undercut to rail, then dyno
6b+ Oarsman - arete, better from ss
7a Trav into Hornblower
6c+ Hornblower - wall left of arete
7a+ Obstructive Pensioner - arete

Sorry to be a grade pedant:

HMS Daring hasn't settled at either 7b or 7b+ as yet.
 I'd say Gritstone Megamix is more low end 7a than 6c.
Despite what my list says, Thing on a Spring I thought was bog standard english 6a (font 6b at most).
Oarsman is better and harder (still 6b+) if climbed laybacking on the right so no need to use the arete, or 7a from sitter (no foot block on left).
The wall between Hornblower and Oarsman is really good at about 6c/+, starting with RH in the finger jam.
You look to be climbing Hornblower a rather hard way in that vid. It's only 6b/+ with better beta. Really excellent problem too.

[Jim]

Hey Jon, I've never been here but am keen to check out new area's.
When you off next week? you can give me the tour

[r-man]

Sorry to be a grade pedant:

HMS Daring hasn't settled at either 7b or 7b+ as yet.
 I'd say Gritstone Megamix is more low end 7a than 6c.
Despite what my list says, Thing on a Spring I thought was bog standard english 6a (font 6b at most).
Oarsman is better and harder (still 6b+) if climbed laybacking on the right so no need to use the arete, or 7a from sitter (no foot block on left).
The wall between Hornblower and Oarsman is really good at about 6c/+, starting with RH in the finger jam.
You look to be climbing Hornblower a rather hard way in that vid. It's only 6b/+ with better beta. Really excellent problem too.

Good knowledge.
Think I got the megamix grade from Al - haven't done this myself.
Not a chance is Thing on a Spring 6b, not for me. Also, from sitting you have to make a few hardish hand adjustments - unless of course your arms are longer than mine...

[Zods Beard]

Went to Birchen last summer, just soloed lots of routes, but the bouldering looked good. Plus the added bonus of it being dead quiet on a weekend.

[slackline]

Went to Birchen last summer, just soloed lots of routes, but the bouldering looked good. Plus the added bonus of it being dead quiet on a weekend.

You were lucky

[Adam Lincoln]

Lost count of the amount of ascents this saw today. Video to follow shorty.

[Fiend]

Went to Birchen last summer, just soloed lots of routes, but the bouldering looked good. Plus the added bonus of it being dead quiet on a weekend.

You were lucky

Lost count of the amount of ascents this saw today. Video to follow shorty.

A fair point then, Slackers

[Drew]

How about the wall to the right of the new problem (plus a continuation to the top)? Does that have a route on it? I did the move up to the right most pod, but didn't fancy finishing up. I thought it would involve a dyno.

[Johnny Brown]

I think it would just be a reach and about HVS.

[Drew]

It was about 4 years ago!

[Bonjoy]

Lost count of the amount of ascents this saw today. Video to follow shorty.

I made it six, but they all had to work a bit for the tick.

[Adam Lincoln]

Lost count of the amount of ascents this saw today. Video to follow shorty.

I made it six, but they all had to work a bit for the tick.

Once temps cooled off though, it made all the difference it seemed.

[Bonjoy]

Too right. Video on the way?