[Nibile]

could someone help a beastmaker noob?
despite having had a look on their website, i still don't get the "dragging" and the "nestling" type of hold.
i don't want to put a new beastmaker tick on my 8a.nu scorecard, and then find out i cheated! 

[Mi|es]

I believe nestling (for say the 45 deg slopers) is where you have three fingers on the 45 degree holds and the index finger of each hand on the 35 degree holds, not entirely sure about 'dragging' though.

[andybfreeman]

my reading of it is:

dragging = open handed
nestling = jamming your index finger against the edge of the next sloper along

are you one arming the 45s the nibile?

[chris05]

  That was my understanding

Is anyone else finding conditions are poor on the beast at the mo? I've had to revert from the spit method to using chalk for the slopers! 

[chicane]

This handy diagram may help

http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/grips.JPG

[Nibile]

thanks for the replies guys!
i only had one session on the beast, in which i was so psyched that i fried my right elbow!!!
damn those perfect holds, you can pull so hard without hurting your skin that you're gonna hurt your body if you don't pay attention. and i didn't!!! too much psyche innit.
i tested the holds, and i found out my many weaknesses. i am defo stronger half crimped and openhanded than full crimped. i'll work the baCK TWO! i could one arm a few holds, the best feat being the right eye (3 fingers openhanded), but for a very short time.
i have a long long way to go, but i have plenty of time, the gym is already boiling and it will close in one month.
iron and wood for the summer.
destruction for the autumn!

[Three Nine]

Nibile - if its not a rude question, how hard do you boulder? I'm not trying to make a point or anything (as per the 5 one-armers thread!) Its just interesting for my personal understanding of how training of this sort relates to climbing performance.

[Nibile]

yo!
it's a bit hard to tell how hard i climb at the moment, because i don't get many chances to go climbing on new problems, but i can say that, on my style of problems, i can flash or do in a few tries 7b/+, and i have redpointed various 8a here and there, but not in 2010. yet. 

[JamesD]

8a 

Beast 

[Nibile]

james,
thank you. but i have to point you at the fact that many, and i say many ukb'ers that post regularly on here, boulder much harder, i mean solid 8b, regularly. so again thank you, but be sure that the true beasts are others!!!

[a dense loner]

nibs ure a gentleman as always


regards other peoples posts on a few things about training, and comparisons of how hard people climb outdoors etc. this really winds me up/amuses me constantly. they are not the same thing nor in many cases directly related. a lot of people on here ave a bee in their bonnet about outside climbing, ure not a wad unless u climb some form of slab horror, or crack horror, or etc etc. however from my own point of view, regards training etc i'm not remotely interested if a 7stone man climbs something on small holds, i'm not shocked. an 8 stone man being able to hang onto an overhanging route for longer than the average man, again i'm not shocked. i like training cos i think its hard, not cos i like to move smoothly over one or two rock types. to me a 12 stone man putting his finger into a mono n lifting his body up is much more impressive than most things that go on, nearly everyone else has different views this is good since there's no way i'd want to sleep with most other peoples perceptions of beauty either. so says an adonis with a spoon.

so those that poo poo training, why don't u just fuck off

[Johnny Brown]

You need to go on ukfingerboard.com instead Dense, you'd be right at home.

[SA Chris]

or how about www.ratemybody.com ?

(a genuine site, possbily NSFW, blocked at my work anyway, but so are most things).

[Johnny Brown]

Q: How many 36 year-olds look as good as Dense?

A: Most of the ones who climb.

[SA Chris]

36? Must have had a tough paper round!

[Johnny Brown]

He's been 36 for the last four birthdays now I think.

[a dense loner]

maybe all 36 yr olds do but wait 2 yrs then we'll see

i've not fingerboarded for 8 mths, again another popular myth

[k2ted]

or how about www.ratemybody.com ?

(a genuine site, possbily NSFW, blocked at my work anyway, but so are most things).

could also try www.ratemyrack.com     

be careful anybody under 18 out there.....

[Paul B]

maybe all 36 yr olds do but wait 2 yrs then we'll see

i've not fingerboarded for 8 mths, again another popular myth

Your were using the motherboard like a giant fingerboard the other night 'muscles'...

[a dense loner]

thats different

[anoread]

I've just been doing some counter-weighted middle finger, bottom rung mono encores (well trying). It really hurts. My skin is screaming by the third rep. Any ideas? I've been doing a bit of sand papering which may be helping, but it still smarts rather.

Is training in some loops of tape a good alternative?

Muchos Gracias

[Fultonius]

Are you already solid at all the other holds? All the 2's? Big monos?

Or did you go out, buy a beatmaker and think "Fuck Yeah, gimme some of the that tendon wrecking, skin tearing, mutherfucking mono action"   

[Simon_W]

pretty solid yes. encores coming on well on the 2's. I haven't really tried the big monos much, I aways seem to be slipping out of them. Are they supposed to be easier?! 

[Nibile]

on the same note, wednesday I did a brief session of max deadhangs and tests.
I am progressing.
I seem to find the small monos not easier to hang as far as the hang itself, but easier to position your fingers in the best way in order to hang them, rather than the slopey monos.
on the slopey, my index, ring and pinky can't fit properly under the small gap between the upper part of the board and the lower.
so, I will go on like this: 10"x6 sessions with hangs and pull ups, twice a week. then one max deadhang session (mostly one armed).

[Fultonius]

pretty solid yes. encores coming on well on the 2's. I haven't really tried the big monos much, I aways seem to be slipping out of them. Are they supposed to be easier?! 

Maybe it's just a case of multiple personality disorder? 

Do you normally have skin issues? I've only hung the lower monos a few times - I need to catch the fold at my last knuckle over the edge or I can't hang it. It does hurt a bit. Hmm. Maybe use more counterweight for a few weeks till the pain threshold increases?