[Sloper]

As people have said hanging the start holds was Chris Hamper's trick (or is my memory awry) but he coldn't do anything with them, indeed even in my fat punterish aged injured state I can stil pose on Brad Pitt, that doesn't mean I can do it.

anyway the trees look suspiciously green, when did this ascent / photo take place again?

I saw one of the chaps from the works getting close to the Joker Tuesday last (he may have done it I don't know) and it seeing the fall from the finishing hold I would want a spotter or two.

In any event the author of the report bears a responsibility to have good sources and check his facts, otherwise we just end up with OK! style UKC drivel

[Paul B]

(Pickles? I think he hit the finish with a dodgy dab but couldn't top it out and people MADE him do it again and top it out...Effort and a half!)

[casa]

Cool gents, read may last line, twas all a bit tounge in cheek !
casa

[casa]

I was trying for the sarcastic vibe...i am officially shit at this internet chat malarky 

[Jim]

Sorry but this is not the thread for sarcastic shit, tongue in cheek etc...
Its very serious thread about someone who appears to be one of the best boulderers ever to have come out of the uk doing a lot of hard peak test pieces in very quick time in very suspect circumstances

[Shy Yorkshireman]

but its hard to ignore the apparently consistent disparity between his indoor performance and his outdoor claims, especially compared to the backdrop of knowing how long it took others to do things he claimed to have done in a  session when these 'others' are seen climbing well indoors.

Ever seen JB down the works???

Fuck this all this! Ryan did the wall to the left of the statesman fucking awesome. Now that is news! I'd like to see his evidence though.

[n_man]

Maybe he only had one spotter - the photographer - and wanted him/her to spot on the hardest moves?

[dobbin]

Fuck this all this! Ryan did the wall to the left of the statesman fucking awesome. Now that is news! I'd like to see his evidence though.

I wouldnt - I dont have a problem believing Ryan because of what I've seen before. I've seen him lap 8a bloc in swiss (blimey, I've seen him nearly climb 8b+!), I've seen him cruise into the finals of national bouldering comps and all of this I see whenever I see him. Now, Ryan and I arent best friends or anything - I dont go climbing specifically with him, the point is that I, someone who goes climbing, has actually seen with my own eyes Ryan being as good as the things he says he has done.

Yes, its fair enough that people have bad days and no you wont always be at your best (god knows I'm not!), but this is at the crux of the matter - what we, the regulars at the walls in sheffield have seen of Scott's climbing isnt consistent with the levels of, for instance - Ryan, Ned, Smitton - all these people that in saying he has done these amazingly hard things he is effectively better than. None of this is proof that he didnt, and certainly, none of it means anyone has it in for him, or is saying he is anything other than a nice guy - I totally agree, the times I have met and spoken to him he seems sound, but this background leads me to question when he appears to be a better climber than all of those people. Again, thats not to say he's not - I like Pritch, want to believe, but i cant suspend my belief system to do so. Please prove me wrong!

[Percy B]

Ever seen JB down the works???

Yes. More than a few times. He fell off quite a lot - are you sure he's done Deliverance? I've never seen a video.... (please nobody post one - I'm joking...)

I have climbed inside with a couple of outdoor 8b boulderers and one 8b+ boulderer who were really embarassingly rubbish on plastic, but I don't doubt that outdoors on tiny minging crimps they can do the deed. I tend to climb a lot better outside than indoors (although the level we're talking here is considerably lower than 8b!!). And some people are brilliant on plastic, but can't climb on rock for toffee (god bless'em).

I can understand that some people require some proof of significant repeats, but Scott is only claiming to have repeated hard stuff - its not like he's claiming first ascents of last great problems which I might be more interested in seeing some footage of. I'm not sure what the big deal is. I know Scott and he seems like a nice guy, and he is a pretty handy climber on plastic, although I've not seen him climb outside. If he's bullshitting then more fool him. If he's not, then the 8 pages of 'debate' on here seem a little unpleasant to say the least.

I have to say that the modern concept of certifying your ascents by producing a video is both a useful tool, but also means that if you don't film everything you do people sometimes doubt your integrity. A bit of a double edged sword. Is there a video of Big Ron doing Careless Torque? Is there a video of Jerry doing Renegade Master? Is there a video of Paul B doing Voyager? No, but nobody questions the validity of these ascents. I know that there is a degree of 'previous form' in these examples, but we still seem to immediately doubt ascents claimed by people we don't know.

Sometimes people climb on their own without other people to take pictures, video them or spot. I sometimes prefer to climb like this, as there are no external pressures (people getting cold and obviously hoping that you hurry up, bored spotters, etc.). Often for me trying a hard project is something that takes so long and requires so much horrific swearing that you wouldn't wish it on any spectator! This often means that I climb hard things or do first ascents on my own without any video footage or photos. I guess I'm more focussed on climbing than recording it. Is this so wrong?

Oh, and big up to minipic for finally doing The Joker properly. All that log-lifting has paid off!

[slackline]

...I like Pritch, want to believe..

[benpritch]

hi percy

this isn't just some repeats we are talking about here, this is someone claiming climbing performance considerably ahead of some of the worlds (verifiably) best boulderers.

We are talking 9.6 sec hundred meters or something?
What you are saying is that someone of the running ability of Usain Bolt for instance was seen running 11.5 secs on an indoor track but claiming to have smashed the world record to bits on an outdoor track? this might not be the perfect analogy but I wish you would be more specific about who your mates are who climb shit indoors and kill it outside???

no one who climbs 8b or harder outside is a punter indoors. it is just not true. you can see it in how they move, you can see the potential without a doubt.

[Paul B]

I have to say that the modern concept of certifying your ascents by producing a video is both a useful tool, but also means that if you don't film everything you do people sometimes doubt your integrity. A bit of a double edged sword. Is there a video of Big Ron doing Careless Torque? Is there a video of Jerry doing Renegade Master? Is there a video of Paul B doing Voyager? No, but nobody questions the validity of these ascents. I know that there is a degree of 'previous form' in these examples, but we still seem to immediately doubt ascents claimed by people we don't know.

If there were 8 pages of debate about my ascent in the same light I'd be stood underneath Voyager armed with Pritch, his camera and Dense as a spotter. Make no mistake. I was at the crag the other day and unlikely to do something as one of the holds was very wet. I found a sequence missing out the holds and specifically asked the person I was climbing with to come down from what he was doing so that I didn't tick it whilst he was out of sight.

Incidentally Renegade Master was belayed by Andy K - he told me

edit: and whoever posted on my blog Anonymously...very brave of you.

[north_country_boy]

Cheers Paul.

But on a similar note, I was informed that Scott did Renegade witha Spanish Girl spotting him .... not his mate 'Dan' as other have said....

[Paul B]

Dan, you're guilty of just reading the last post, read percys then edit. Belayed Jerry.

[Bonjoy]

I have to say that the modern concept of certifying your ascents by producing a video is both a useful tool, but also means that if you don't film everything you do people sometimes doubt your integrity. A bit of a double edged sword. Is there a video of Big Ron doing Careless Torque? Is there a video of Jerry doing Renegade Master? Is there a video of Paul B doing Voyager? No, but nobody questions the validity of these ascents. I know that there is a degree of 'previous form' in these examples, but we still seem to immediately doubt ascents claimed by people we don't know.

The point is that this is the last in a long string of impressive claims without any back-up. Nobody expects video evidence of every single ascent, but at least one (or the word of a credible spotter or some decent photos) would go a hell of a long way and given the scale of the claims is a reasonable expectation (assuming the guy wants people to believe him).

The ascents of CT and RM came years before every man and his dog had video camera facilities on their phones and cameras and the ascentionists were highly respected climbers with a long proven track record, there is no comparison.

Doing big stuff without witness is any mans prerogative, just as much as it's my prerogative to state that given the circumstances I personally cease to have faith in someones word alone.

[nik at work]

I though there was a video of Paul on Voyager? Or have I dreamt it?

(Not trying to open a can of worms, I am absolutely 100% sure that Paul CRUSHED Voyager. I'm just sure I saw a video, am I mental?)

[Percy B]

....am I mental?

Maybe... I think I am.

Ben, Paul, Jon - I understand where you're coming from. I'm just not into the witch-hunting thing on the internet -its all a bit faceless and accusational. If I have an issue with somebody I'd rather ask them about it to their face than discuss it on a forum, but that's my personal view - I was only trying to air a different side to the debate. I'm told Scott is making his first ever trip to Font at the moment which may explain his lack of communication.....

[Liam Copley]

....am I mental?

Maybe... I think I am.

Ben, Paul, Jon - I understand where you're coming from. I'm just not into the witch-hunting thing on the internet -its all a bit faceless and accusational. If I have an issue with somebody I'd rather ask them about it to their face than discuss it on a forum, but that's my personal view - I was only trying to air a different side to the debate. I'm told Scott is making his first ever trip to Font at the moment which may explain his lack of communication.....

I did try to tell people that he is in Font and can't reply, but some people may not have seen that post/message.  And like i said before, shall we just wait until scott or somebody else comes foward before we make this thread alot longer than it already is? Its obvious that 'debating' about it isn't actually doing much about the situation, I'm not trying to annoy anyone I just think thats the best idea right now.

[benpritch]

I'm not being faceless - my name might be a slight abbreviation but.

I'm not accusing anyone of anything.

i just want proof for what might be a couple of the greatest feats of bouldering we have seen for a long time.

It is something i have been passionate about for 20 years or so and i have been inquisitive about the cutting edge of bouldering since i started. (Geek)

This seems like an ideal place for this;  it is an open forum anyone with any first hand knowledge of these ascents could come on and say definitively that they are true.

I think it is interesting that nobody has backed Scott up with anything other than hearsay and second hand info.

I think it is interesting that nobody can name anybody who has spotted/seen Scott climb anything.

I think it is interesting that the only reason we have been given to believe all this is that Scott is an all round good guy, which i would agree with from the times that i have met him.

I'm more interested in hearing from a witness to these ascents than Scott himself so whether he is in Font or not is irrelevant.

And while we're at it could any other witnesses to other mystery ascents come on here at the same time and put all the niggles and doubts in the world of climbing to rest. We will all sleep better knowing the truth. come on you know the ones i'm talking about.....

[Paul B]

I though there was a video of Paul on Voyager? Or have I dreamt it?

If there is then I know nothing about it Nik. There is Ty and probably one of my favourite pieces of footage; Stew Watson on it.

Ben, Paul, Jon - I understand where you're coming from. I'm just not into the witch-hunting thing on the internet

I'm not into witch hunting either, please review my posts if you think differently. If things are reported within the climbing media (never mind how small) you HAVE to accept that they might provoke a response on a site such as this.

[dave]

I'm told Scott is making his first ever trip to Font at the moment which may explain his lack of communication.....

I was last in font at october half term and someone said he was also in the forst then (as were a lot of brits, as usual).

[Johnny Brown]

I'm just not into the witch-hunting thing on the internet -its all a bit faceless and accusational. If I have an issue with somebody I'd rather ask them about it to their face than discuss it on a forum,

Or it could be quite the opposite. Asking someone to their face if they've done something that they know full well you know they have already claimed is accusational, not asking for pictures on a website where news is typically accompanied by pictures. Or are you suggesting you should smilingly congratulate him whilst scrutinising his eyes for the dark twitches of bullshit?

[nik at work]

If there is then I know nothing about it Nik. There is Ty and probably one of my favourite pieces of footage; Stew Watson on it.

Well I can't really argue with that can I? I think maybe there was a news item of your repeat with perhaps a link to a video of someone (Bent Spoon?) climbing it and I assumed it was you, hey-ho I can live with looking like a muppet.

And while we're at it could any other witnesses to other mystery ascents come on here at the same time and put all the niggles and doubts in the world of climbing to rest. We will all sleep better knowing the truth. come on you know the ones i'm talking about.....

I can only really think of one other character of controversy (oh and Shy O'Conical). Or am I hopelessly naive and there are rafts of doubted ascents out there....

(The above isn't to imply any doubt on my part of said character, it is just the only other individual that I remember being mentioned)

[slackline]

i just want proof for what might be a couple of the greatest feats of bouldering we haven't seen for a long time.

 

[Bonjoy]

Ben, Paul, Jon - I understand where you're coming from. I'm just not into the witch-hunting thing on the internet -its all a bit faceless and accusational. If I have an issue with somebody I'd rather ask them about it to their face than discuss it on a forum, but that's my personal view - I was only trying to air a different side to the debate. I'm told Scott is making his first ever trip to Font at the moment which may explain his lack of communication.....

That's making the incorrect assumption that just because people comment on forums means the same people don't also have direct communication with the person concerned.
It's entirely fair to respond to the public act of claiming something, with a publicly aired request for back up. A witch-hunt that is not.