Hey Toby
Its a good few years since I visited Archidona (about 6) but I dont remember being blown away in terms of quality. The crag was covered in pigeon shit, even the odd pocket had a dead bird inside. It just felt a bit grim. The crag did have some good routes but I reckon a day or two would be plenty.
Desplomilandia was a good venue (30min from Chorro) plenty to do in the 7c-8a range from what I remember.
The best crag for me was Makinodromo at the far end of the El Chorro gorge. Obviously Lourdes 8a (7c?) is the one to go for as well as Atlas Shrieked 8a . Its probably worth you checking out the latest access issues, this time last year they banned folks from accessing the gorge via the tunnels. Think a fair few climbers got nailed with a hefty fine.
Poema de Roca in Chorro had a bunch of quality (but super polished) cave routes. Swimming Through A Shark Attack 8a+, Rima Libra 7c+, Eye Of The Storm 7c and Viejo Traidor 7b+ are all mega.
Nice one
Steve
