UKBouldering.com

[Peak] [Higgar] [7B+] Block and Tackle Direct Start (Read 12017 times)

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2518
  • Karma: +118/-4
Well-known obvious challenge despatched care of Ed Brown yesterday. High quality and "about V8" according to Ed.
« Last Edit: March 16, 2010, 09:18:12 am by shark »

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
Good work Ed, finished up block and tackle?

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2518
  • Karma: +118/-4
Good work Ed, finished up block and tackle?

He just bouldered the start y'day.

north_country_boy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 939
  • Karma: +37/-0
cool, will check it out...

grimer

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1424
  • Karma: +115/-1
That looks brilliant if my eyes remember correctly. Reall steep arete slapping, isn't it?

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8645
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
forgive my ignorance, but where abouts is this? (-ve karma for first reply of 'Higgar Tor')
I know nothing about routes

RichK

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 173
  • Karma: +4/-0
Nice one Eduardo. 

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2518
  • Karma: +118/-4
forgive my ignorance, but where abouts is this? (-ve karma for first reply of 'Higgar Tor')
I know nothing about routes

It's the left arete on the actual leaning block/crag of Higgar Tor (as in The Rasp. J  Brown FA 1956).

Block and Tackle the route swings onto the left arete from 10 feet up the chimney. This boulders the arete directly from the ground to an obvious jug.


T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2518
  • Karma: +118/-4
Quote from: Grimestone Cowboylink=topic=10611.msg176008#msg176008 date=1228733284
That looks brilliant if my eyes remember correctly. Reall steep arete slapping, isn't it?

Apparently the moves are like the crux of the route higher up the arete. Weird, powerful slapping cos it's so overhanging. The final move is an everything off throw for a pint glass-esque jug. Lovely rough rock.

dave

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18770
  • Karma: +611/-9
  • Ex-moderator, forced out.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 9876
  • Karma: +382/-59
  • Whut
Good mini-LGP.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2518
  • Karma: +118/-4
Lovely rough rock.

oxymoronic?

You should have seen the lad's hands. Urrgh.

priscilla wimbush

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 50
  • Karma: +0/-0
Well-known obvious challenge despatched care of Ed Brown yesterday. High quality and "about V8" according to Ed.

Nice - can we take it that 7b+ would be right then?
Jasper will be along in a minute I'm sure.  ;)

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2518
  • Karma: +118/-4
Well-known obvious challenge despatched care of Ed Brown yesterday. High quality and "about V8" according to Ed.

Nice - can we take it that 7b+ would be right then?
Jasper will be along in a minute I'm sure.  ;)

V grades don't half annoy me for peak grit. Well, it's going to be 7b or 7b+ innit. V8, the E7 of bouldering grades?

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3250
  • Karma: +89/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
Ed said 7b+ to me this afternoon. Sounds like landing the top jug really rags your right hand - ouch!

Jaspersharpe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1B punter
  • Posts: 12469
  • Karma: +599/-20
  • Allez Oleeeve!
Jasper will be along in a minute I'm sure.  ;)

V grades don't half annoy me

Ed said 7b+ to me this afternoon.


No need. Nuff said.  ;D

Neil F

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 229
  • Karma: +16/-1
Now Ed has toughened up his hands, tell him to investigate the slopiest of sloping traverses, crossing the wall from the jug on Block and Tackle to the niche on Surform (or was it the other way around?).

Claimed at E5 6b by legendary strongman and storyteller Chris Parker back in the 80's, but still awaiting a first ascent.

And how about linking the new start into the original?  You could even climb B & T the subtle way, missing out all but one of the "weird powerful slaps".   :P

I assume the pointy boulder beneath was patio'd, and the problem bouldered out from the ground?

Great effort, Ed.

Neil


T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2518
  • Karma: +118/-4

And how about linking the new start into the original?  You could even climb B & T the subtle way, missing out all but one of the "weird powerful slaps".   Tongue

I assume the pointy boulder beneath was patio'd, and the problem bouldered out from the ground?


Subtle Way. Lanking up again with your left?

Ed did the start from the ground - one Moon Saturn pad balanced on the boulder and no spotters. No patios.

I'm sure he'll be back to link it into your line.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2518
  • Karma: +118/-4

And how about linking the new start into the original?  You could even climb B & T the subtle way, missing out all but one of the "weird powerful slaps".   Tongue

I assume the pointy boulder beneath was patio'd, and the problem bouldered out from the ground?


Subtle Way. Lanking up again with your left?

Ed did the start from the ground - one Moon Saturn pad balanced on the boulder and no spotters. No patios.

I'm sure he'll be back to link it into your line.

Neil F

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 229
  • Karma: +16/-1

Subtle Way. Lanking up again with your left?


Try attaining the triangular niche out to the right wall by use of a perfect heel hook.  You might be surprised when you get it!


Ed did the start from the ground - one Moon Saturn pad balanced on the boulder and no spotters. No patios.


I have to admit I've absolutely no idea what a Moon Saturn pad is, nor a patio for that matter....

Neil

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 19132
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder

I have to admit I've absolutely no idea what a Moon Saturn pad is, nor a patio for that matter....

Neil

This is a patio being built (well extended actually)...



Note that at the start it was sloping uneven ground with the potential to inflict nasty injury (sic.) should you fall on it , yet the end result is perfectly flat and renders the possibility of twisting your ankle or smashing your head on some particularly spiky grass virtually negligable.

 :) :P

This is a the largest Moon [of] Saturn, Titan



 but there are lots of other smaller moons such as Rhea



and Iapetus



This diagram may be useful (or not  :P)






Shy Yorkshireman

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 72
  • Karma: +10/-1
    • climblox
Buggar, another one gets away! nice one Ed (the pox) Brown.

Just to hijack the tread, i climbed the wall, between rasp and rasp direct (yes there is a gap), wasn't going to say anything till i'd done the arete, oh well.

Witness the gritness, font 7a+ish cool moves, up to an undercut break thing, then a massive move to the sloping break type thing drop off. Or continue and do the direct finish to the rasp the Bransby has high balled it. Prob done before but well worth while.

Aide.

Percy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1290
  • Karma: +90/-2
    • www.climbingworks.com
Bransby has high balled it.

I think you'll find that that is quite some highball  :o - maybe 'soloing' would be a more instructive word. Rasp direct finish is absolute nails - I remember my elegant exit mantle as one of my most harrowing top-outs, and I had the security of a rope at the time. Bollocks to 'highballing' that out. But oh so typical of the Bransbubble!

Shy Yorkshireman

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 72
  • Karma: +10/-1
    • climblox
Soloing high balling, same thing, he had green wellies on as well! with frog eyes on em.

Percy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1290
  • Karma: +90/-2
    • www.climbingworks.com
he had green wellies on as well! with frog eyes on em.
Aye, those new Evolv's look the business. The eyes make seeing the footholds so much easier....
 ;)