What I can't abide is the reporting that he's "got" the ascent rather than made the ascent/done the climb.
I'm trying to build up the image of UKB's perfect climber-Doesn't use "get," "send" or "bagged"
I'm trying to build up the image of UKB's perfect climber-Doesn't use social media at all-Doesn't post clickbaity vids, or indeed any vids as that is showing off-Doesnt throw pads down, instead gently lowers them in a respectful manner -Doesn't use "get," "send" or "bagged"-Climbs really hard, ideally across multiple disciplines, but is humble about it, a modest achiever.-Does top grade stuff but it isn't about the grades man, it's about the experience -doesn't fabricate achievements Through this profile, I have calculated that UKB's dream climber is... John Gaskins back around
Through this profile, I have calculated that UKB's dream climber is... John Gaskins
-Doesnt throw pads down, instead gently lowers them in a respectful manner Through this profile, I have calculated that UKB's dream climber is... John Gaskins
This comment made me wonder if perhaps Britain's 'lost' generation (I actually think it was pretty good) was 'lost' because it was using as its reference point some world class bullshitters? A process of hard work and improvement which is visible and transparent and which leads to success is a phenomenon that has been shown to breed more hard work and more success for others within the same local scene - it's the 'localised pockets of excellence' effect described in bro-science books such as 'Talent Code' by Daniel Coyle and 'Bounce' by Matthew Said. Having world class athletes, climbers in this case, with visible and transparent characters - the likes of Bosi and Aiden among others - gives other climbers aspirational role models they can see and believe in that the training and hard work, works. In the generation you're talking about (or just after?), you had prominent characters such as, among others, Simpson, bullshitting his way through life not being transparent or approachable yet claiming to be at the cutting edge of climbing. Which gave others nothing to aspire to except 'don't question me or I'll attack'.
I'm trying to build up the image of UKB's perfect climber-Doesn't use social media at all-Doesn't post clickbaity vids, or indeed any vids as that is showing off-Doesnt throw pads down, instead gently lowers them in a respectful manner -Doesn't use "get," "send" or "bagged"-Climbs really hard, ideally across multiple disciplines, but is humble about it, a modest achiever.-Does top grade stuff but it isn't about the grades man, it's about the experience Through this profile, I have calculated that UKB's dream climber is... John Gaskins
I'm telling you, the only way to figure out whether it's worth having a PR department is to compare what they drive to the crag and who they can pull at the Works party.Have you seen that train-spotting bloke on Instagram? Have you seen his girlfriend? As one poster on this forum said "when you've got 1.5m followers on Instagram you can date whoever you like".
https://www.instagram.com/p/CkizirXofmC/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=Somewhere Droyd's head is exploding
Quote from: Will Hunt on November 03, 2022, 03:34:39 pmI'm telling you, the only way to figure out whether it's worth having a PR department is to compare what they drive to the crag and who they can pull at the Works party.Have you seen that train-spotting bloke on Instagram? Have you seen his girlfriend? As one poster on this forum said "when you've got 1.5m followers on Instagram you can date whoever you like".He's been with his girlfriend from years before starting the tik-tok/instagram thing. He actually used to be/still is a model. I think he exaggerates his dorky style and is at least somewhat playing a character.https://www.instagram.com/p/BjSyZpynF_Z/https://www.instagram.com/p/BqPGJ3HnmGS/
Quote from: BillyTheMountain on November 04, 2022, 04:56:23 pmQuote from: Will Hunt on November 03, 2022, 03:34:39 pmI'm telling you, the only way to figure out whether it's worth having a PR department is to compare what they drive to the crag and who they can pull at the Works party.Have you seen that train-spotting bloke on Instagram? Have you seen his girlfriend? As one poster on this forum said "when you've got 1.5m followers on Instagram you can date whoever you like".He's been with his girlfriend from years before starting the tik-tok/instagram thing. He actually used to be/still is a model. I think he exaggerates his dorky style and is at least somewhat playing a character.https://www.instagram.com/p/BjSyZpynF_Z/https://www.instagram.com/p/BqPGJ3HnmGS/Reading that before clicking the links it took me far too long to realise you were talking about Train Bloke and not Bosi.
Significant rises in UK climbing standards occur in periods of economic hardship:Brown and Whillans: post-war austerity. This increase in standards fizzled out in the later 50s and 60s when 'most of our people have never had it so good'.Livesey, Fawcett, Allen and Bancroft: 1973-75 oil shocks, three day week. Moffatt, Moon and the other dole climbers: 1980s collapse of traditional industries and manufacturing (Stu can blame the relative prosperity of the new Labour era for his "lost generation").And now.
He's not exactly a bad looking bloke
I don't think no. of sessions is a reliable indicator for boulders, there are just too many variables. What's more important is benchmarking yourself at time of send and SCIENCE FACTS have shown the only reliable indicator (IMO) is how long you can hang the BM 2k edge. Standard protocol should be to conduct a simple hang test within the days following a cutting edge send.
Yup, I'm sure everyone has those 1 or 2 problems multiple grades below their v-max that are in their total antistyle and have still taken them multiple sessions to send.