[shark]

Past it

[Adam Lincoln]

Past it

Kids hey...

[moose]

 I now feel slightly less emasculated by the memory of him as a 12 y.o, stepping in to climb on my draws, and rinsing my multi-year project in short order (I really wish I'd taken up climbing before I was 27 yo... then I might only be crap...).

[cheque]

I really wish I'd taken up climbing before I was 27 yo... then I might only be crap....

I can only assume you’re working off the “having the most fun” measurement of being a good climber here.

[remus]

Waddage! 2 new entrants to the 9a club in the space of 4 days!

[Nibile]

Gioia for Niki Ceria.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIyIHSCDGpL/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
On his own, doin' his thing. Legendary.
With some thoughts on kneebars.

[teestub]

He’s hoovering up all the hard stuff in Swizzy and Italy, so impressive and such a great climbing style.

[Coops_13]

Repeat of Sleepwalker V16 by relatively unknown Nathan Williams:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CJWnAMFDVYO/?igshid=16ugrv8ddqdtr

[turnipturned]

Ah awesome. I climbed with Nathan in rocklands years ago, he must have been 14 or so and was very impressive back then!

[Ross Barker]

Another ascent of sleepwalker is mint, the sequence looks amazing on it.

According to UKC's 2020 roundup, Micky Page has got the second ascent of The Boss, as well, which is fantastic.

[Teaboy]

I know grit head pointing is a bit passé but surprised this hasn’t been mentioned. Harder Faster strikes me as one of the most terrifying routes around and grit E8 by a woman still very thin on the ground. Repeats by James Pearson (Harder Faster) and Caroline Ciavaldini (Gaia) for anyone who doesn’t want to click on the link

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2020/12/hard_grit_repeats_by_james_pearson_and_caroline_ciavaldini-72675

[shurt]

Harder Faster is a total and utter chop route, fair dos. Amazing.

[bigironhorse]

That footage of Harder Faster in Consumed (?) always gives me the willies.

[Fiend]

That footage of Harder Faster in Consumed (?) always gives me the willies.

Yup Consumed, it's brilliant that. The grey day and the eerie background noises.

I don't think headpointing scarcely repeated E9 death routes is *that* passe. It's hardly a sort of send-train bellend low-hanging fruit tick sort of route!

Has anyone looked at the true direct finish to Gaia i.e. keeping teetering up the groove to the bleached arrow head lip above??

[remus]

Is it definitely consumed? I had a quick flick through it on yt and couldn't spot it (there's is some fairly harrowing footage of Gaia on there though). Would love a timestamp if anyone can be bothered.

[Fiend]

I'm sure it was, maybe it was one of the bonus outtake extras?? Anyway here's the clip itself:

[cheque]

When I was making Stonnis I couldn’t find anyone who’d entertain the idea of Harder Faster, even people who’d climbed that grade and had tried it on toprope. One told me that trying it had given them nightmares and someone else (I forget who) told me that there’s a good argument for it being closer to E10.

[Wood FT]

I’ve heard the same.

[unclesomebody]

I remember watching Toby do it in 2003 and he made it look pretty casual. I remember the weather was shit as it was a bit drizzly and my camera lens was getting damp, plus it was going dark... He just romped up it. I can remember so clearly how he stood on top and flexed. RIP my friend.

[Teaboy]

I remember watching Toby do it in 2003 and he made it look pretty casual. I remember the weather was shit as it was a bit drizzly and my camera lens was getting damp, plus it was going dark... He just romped up it. I can remember so clearly how he stood on top and flexed. RIP my friend.

Do you have any photos of his ascent?

I'd not seen the footage posted above and it looks harrowing as I imagined, seems like harder version of Thin Air with a much bigger ground fall and no feet.

[Doylo]

I'm sure it was, maybe it was one of the bonus outtake extras?? Anyway here's the clip itself:

Dan filmed it but using my camera. Irish Si did Gaia same day then the mist came in.

[36chambers]

I'm sure it was, maybe it was one of the bonus outtake extras?? Anyway here's the clip itself:

I'm pretty sure it was in Shock of the New, the other feature length that used to be on the crimperE6 youtube channel. I can't find it at the moment, must have been taken down

[Fiend]

It was definitely one of the two then

MaxiMuscle t-shirts and flexing on top, I bet Keenus didn't do any of that....

[shark]

When I was making Stonnis I couldn’t find anyone who’d entertain the idea of Harder Faster, even people who’d climbed that grade and had tried it on toprope. One told me that trying it had given them nightmares and someone else (I forget who) told me that there’s a good argument for it being closer to E10.

Was it Seb as he wondered that when we were chatting shit a couple of weeks ago?

Also Franco has confirmed on ukc that Adam Watson repeated it 8 years ago which I don’t think was reported at the time.

[remus]

Seb's left a comment to that affect in the ukc logbook so could well be.