[dave]

Steve would bathang the weedkiller jug = no change in grade.

[Doylo]

It's all about time on rock. Doesn't have to be a big number intro especially if its overhanging.

[Wood FT]

what a line it'll be too, not even kidding, a sabre-like line pointing up to the future (a link up into evo)

edit: forgot to say well done Tom, real good

[ding dong]

Jordan Buys has made the first ground-up ascent of Tim Emmett's Chicama​ E9 6c at Trearddur Bay​.

Get it bolted with duplex stainless that will last >100 years (or de-pegged @ e10?). It'll be a shit-show of rusted pegs in 10 years.

Pegged routes on sea cliffs grumbles aside, nice one Jordan! 

Top tips for the gear on this route.. The pegs are shit!! unless you are placing the thing i believe its not really possible to make a useful assessment of how good they are, like you can with other trad gear you are placing. All too easy to clip and go!  not such an issue if its the odd peg supplementing other gear you've placed, but on this route pegs are the main protection,  russian roulette 7c+ sport route in my opinion.

fantastic effort from Jordan(possibly inspiring enough to make me glad it didnt get bolted...)
obviously would hate to see people get hurt 'sport climbing' this, in my opinion very serious route, heads up.

[monkey boy]

Yeah Gangle finished up Sympathy of Choice but he thought it was Hook, and we didn't have a clue. To be honest it didn't look much harder than normal Fat Lip but Gangle is looking a beast at the moment!!

[Doylo]

Jordan Buys has made the first ground-up ascent of Tim Emmett's Chicama​ E9 6c at Trearddur Bay​.

Get it bolted with duplex stainless that will last >100 years (or de-pegged @ e10?). It'll be a shit-show of rusted pegs in 10 years.

Pegged routes on sea cliffs grumbles aside, nice one Jordan! 

Top tips for the gear on this route.. The pegs are shit!! unless you are placing the thing i believe its not really possible to make a useful assessment of how good they are, like you can with other trad gear you are placing. All too easy to clip and go!  not such an issue if its the odd peg supplementing other gear you've placed, but on this route pegs are the main protection,  russian roulette 7c+ sport route in my opinion.

Haha, 7c+. Good old ding dong

[a dense loner]

Chaz has found the internet at last. There may be a few worthwhile reports on this thread soon

[monkey boy]

According to Judge Banks Emma Flaherty did Royksopp (8A) in Rocklands yesterday 

[bendavison]

According to Judge Banks Emma Flaherty did Royksopp (8A) in Rocklands yesterday 

Good effort, that thing looks nails. Not your typical 'girl problem'. Is Emma tall? It looks nigh on impossible for short people.

[cofe]

Great stuff, nice one Emma!

[monkey boy]

According to Judge Banks Emma Flaherty did Royksopp (8A) in Rocklands yesterday 

Good effort, that thing looks nails. Not your typical 'girl problem'. Is Emma tall? It looks nigh on impossible for short people.

She isn't particularly tall. I think she came up with some kind of crazy inverted beta but not sure of the details.

[andy popp]

Also, what is a 'girl problem'?

[Doylo]

Bens Roof

[Three Nine]

Bens Roof

[JR]

Jordan Buys has made the first ground-up ascent of Tim Emmett's Chicama​ E9 6c at Trearddur Bay​.

Top tips for the gear on this route.. The pegs are shit!! unless you are placing the thing i believe its not really possible to make a useful assessment of how good they are, like you can with other trad gear you are placing. All too easy to clip and go!  not such an issue if its the odd peg supplementing other gear you've placed, but on this route pegs are the main protection,  russian roulette 7c+ sport route in my opinion.

fantastic effort from Jordan(possibly inspiring enough to make me glad it didnt get bolted...)
obviously would hate to see people get hurt 'sport climbing' this, in my opinion very serious route, heads up.

The 'key gear' for the flash was 2 cams between the 2 clusters of pegs - thankfully they were good, at least the smallest held a pretty chunky fall (with a soft belay).  I'll second that the pegs generally looked pretty guff on the whole wall to be honest! 8a+ apparently...

[monkey boy]

According to this https://instagram.com/p/6aBIBDhppq/ Banksy has climbed Vice President 8B! Good work 

[Doylo]

According to this https://instagram.com/p/6aBIBDhppq/ Banksy has climbed Vice President 8B! Good work 

Britains strongest married couple?

[rodma]

According to this https://instagram.com/p/6aBIBDhppq/ Banksy has climbed Vice President 8B! Good work 

Britains strongest married couple?

Definitely sounds like it. Ukb needs a new list.

[Oldmanmatt]

Also, what is a 'girl problem'?

Our attitude?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[andy_e]

A girl problem is any boulder problem that a woman tries, set in a patronising tone.

[Fiend]

Christ here we go again, the myopic knee-jerk SJWs who can't possibly tolerate the mention of genuine non-qualitative differences between the genders 

[tomtom]

I thought it might be to do with the shape of the rock... But aside from the odd stalagmite/tite affairs I can't think of any boy Boulder problems... So that must be wrong...

[Will Hunt]

It was fairly clear from the context of the post that in this case a 'typical girl problem' might mean one requiring a very long reach. Girls are generally shorter than men, with some exceptions of course.
Is it really sexist to acknowledge fundamental biological differences between sexes? If so can we please merge the two "men/women who have climbed >X recently" threads?

[haydn jones]

Smaller fingers on women (genrally) so more suited to crimping than slopers. Dunno how true that is. I definitely feel that i wish i had big shovel hands on grit  slopers for more skin contact with the rock

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Think you're just stereotyping. Unless problems start having different grades based on your ape index/height/weight/age/number of kids/work commitments etc etc it's totally irrelevant. 8a=8a and 8b=8b. Massive kudos to both the Banks' irrespective of gender!