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significant repeats (Read 3494609 times)

Paul B

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#10675 Re: significant repeats
July 16, 2022, 11:02:01 am
I like the typo. Very apt!

jwi

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#10676 Re: significant repeats
July 20, 2022, 06:56:12 pm
Dave Graham has repeated Fuck the system, 8C+ in Fionnay, with what sounds like a better sequence.

Moo

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#10677 Re: significant repeats
July 20, 2022, 11:20:15 pm
Fucking legend

shark

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Bradders

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#10679 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2022, 07:31:20 am
Write up on his FB page:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cey5A2EDtid/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Nope, that's Euclase an FA of his from a few months ago...

andy popp

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#10680 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2022, 09:25:47 am
It is on his Facebook however. He's having a phenomenal spell, quite incredible.

cheque

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lukeyboy

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#10682 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2022, 10:05:47 am
All hail the wizard  :bow:

Liamhutch89

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#10683 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2022, 10:08:47 am
Mega! Am I right in thinking that DG's first 8C+ boulders were both done recently? If so then it's especially impressive that he's still  improving at the highest levels at 40. Most athletes in other sports are done at that age.

remus

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#10684 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2022, 11:10:17 am
Mega! Am I right in thinking that DG's first 8C+ boulders were both done recently? If so then it's especially impressive that he's still  improving at the highest levels at 40. Most athletes in other sports are done at that age.

He did Creature From the Black Lagoon in 2016 and Hypnotized Minds in 2019 so he's got form. Still, he's no spring chicken and I think your point remains.

https://climbing-history.org/climber/503/dave-graham

Bradders

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#10685 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2022, 02:27:45 pm
Mega! Am I right in thinking that DG's first 8C+ boulders were both done recently? If so then it's especially impressive that he's still  improving at the highest levels at 40. Most athletes in other sports are done at that age.

Didn't he recently say he'd stopped smoking weed? If so, not really a surprise that not being high all the time leads to an improvement in athletic performance and a greater ability to execute complex movements.

chriss

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#10686 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2022, 06:12:56 pm
Wasn't that Woods for Return of the Sleepwalker, I'm sure he quit coffee, fags the lot?

Either way DG is a true hero, nothing beats a 14 paragraph on his recent activities.

mrjonathanr

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#10687 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2022, 11:07:41 pm
His talk at the Works a few years ago was ace, kind of bouldering reinvented by a mad professor vibe. Asked what he’d be if not climbing, he said an actor, seems family background is quite literary / thespian. For some reason I wasn’t expecting that.

Fiend

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#10688 Re: significant repeats
July 21, 2022, 11:30:53 pm
His talk at the Works a few years ago was ace, kind of bouldering reinvented by a mad professor vibe. Asked what he’d be if not climbing, he said an actor, seems family background is quite literary / thespian. For some reason I wasn’t expecting that.
I remember that, it was properly entertaining / inspiring, definitely a guy who is very engaged with life.

shark

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teestub

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#10690 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2022, 06:55:40 am
His talk at the Works a few years ago was ace, kind of bouldering reinvented by a mad professor vibe. Asked what he’d be if not climbing, he said an actor, seems family background is quite literary / thespian. For some reason I wasn’t expecting that.

Feel like that must be going on for 15 years ago now!  He said that everyone should get a kneepad and learn how to use it, which I remember seemed pretty wild at the time.


SA Chris

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#10691 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2022, 08:37:22 am
He actually made it as far as Aberdeen too. Very funny, passionate and engaging.

jwi

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#10692 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2022, 11:44:30 am
Edu Marin has done the second completely free ascent of "The best rock climb in the world"™, Eternal Flame, on Pakistan's Nameless Tower. Edu Marin was supported by his brother Alex and their father Fransisco. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/edu-marin-makes-second-free-ascent-eternal-flame-on-nameless-tower.html

(“Best” according to the Huber brothers as well as Bodet/Petit.)

Topo here: https://m.huberbuam.de/files/hb/content/topos/HB-Topo-Karakorum-Eternal-Flame.pdf
« Last Edit: July 22, 2022, 11:50:30 am by jwi »

SA Chris

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#10693 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2022, 12:38:25 pm
Good work, glad they finally got some dry weather.

Duma

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#10694 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2022, 03:23:07 pm
So he freed all the pitches, in one push, but not in order (including two after summiting?) Seems odd, especially since it sounds like he stayed on the wall during bad weather for 10 days while his team descended to preserve the "single push"

jwi

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#10695 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2022, 03:35:33 pm
Very whacky style, as with many free routes in the great ranges (and many ascents in Yosemite as well, where there are like 350 days of good weather per year).

I am often left to think "why don't people just aid a few pitches if they run into bad weather" or "why not just climb something easier that can be done in a day or during a shorter weather window". But I guess that is the prerogative of people like me who climb just for our own enjoyment.

SA Chris

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#10696 Re: significant repeats
July 22, 2022, 03:40:50 pm
So he freed all the pitches, in one push, but not in order (including two after summiting?)

Does it say they weren't in order? He may have aided the last 2, come back down and then freed them in order? Surely in the grey area of high altitude free climbing this is acceptable? It's not like he's topping out on a big wall.

Regardless, amazing effort.

Duma

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#10697 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2022, 08:44:19 am
Edu Marin has done the second completely free ascent of "The best rock climb in the world"™, Eternal Flame, on Pakistan's Nameless Tower. Edu Marin was supported by his brother Alex and their father Fransisco. https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/edu-marin-makes-second-free-ascent-eternal-flame-on-nameless-tower.html

(“Best” according to the Huber brothers as well as Bodet/Petit.)

Topo here: https://m.huberbuam.de/files/hb/content/topos/HB-Topo-Karakorum-Eternal-Flame.pdf

Jacopo Larcher and Babsi Zangerl have just done it too, with no falls!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgbSd62M_2j/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/p/CgbTR3eDzeH/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

jwi

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#10698 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2022, 09:29:07 am
Fantastic!

nic mullin

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#10699 Re: significant repeats
July 25, 2022, 10:08:06 am
Amazing.

I went to a Gaz Parry slideshow about his attempt on eternal flame a few years ago. They had a really hard time with bad weather, wet rock, freezing temps (at best) and avalanches. Reminded me of blood sweat and bagels in a way.


 

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