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Columns (Read 5869 times)

Andy B

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Columns
November 27, 2008, 02:14:08 pm
Where exactly does Columns, at the clouds, go?

I always thought that it started sat as for Tetris then finished up the 7a mantel, and the picture in Sam W's blog from a while back seems to show this, but a thread on here from when it was reported seems to suggest that it may start further right than tetris? Can anyone drop any knowledge please?

dave

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#1 Re: Columns
November 27, 2008, 02:19:49 pm
is this the m.adams thing?

Percy B

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#2 Re: Columns
November 27, 2008, 02:33:37 pm
I thought it did the tetris sitter but then traversed the lip rightwards to finish up the right arete. I'm pretty sure thats the way Sam did it - seems like the logical line..

Andy B

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#3 Re: Columns
November 27, 2008, 02:42:34 pm
Dave: Yes

percy: This thread seems to blur things a bit:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3816.0.html

Somebody's Fool

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#4 Re: Columns
November 27, 2008, 04:10:21 pm
Sam definitely did as Percy said.

This is an absolutely amazing problem, so it's strange Ru describes it as a 'non-problem'.

Percy B

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#5 Re: Columns
November 27, 2008, 05:05:06 pm
It is a very nice problem, and takes a line. The other thread description isn't very clear - I don't remember a ramp feature (unless this means the bottom of the hanging slab). You go up to the obvious slopey shoulder on the arete of tetris then do a couple of hard moves right to gain the 7a mantley problem. Rather than spoil the problem with an ungainly grovel to finish, it seems a more aesthetic potion to keep going up the arete. It shouldn't change the grade which ever way you do it.

Krank

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#6 Re: Columns
November 27, 2008, 05:14:22 pm
whats the grade?

r-man

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#7 Re: Columns
November 27, 2008, 05:24:47 pm
It is a very nice problem, and takes a line. The other thread description isn't very clear - I don't remember a ramp feature (unless this means the bottom of the hanging slab). You go up to the obvious slopey shoulder on the arete of tetris then do a couple of hard moves right to gain the 7a mantley problem. Rather than spoil the problem with an ungainly grovel to finish, it seems a more aesthetic potion to keep going up the arete. It shouldn't change the grade which ever way you do it.

Right, but it seems the question is, is this the line that Mick Adams took, or is it actually a different problem? Ru says going up Tetris and along is easier than Tetris, whereas Tony says Mick's problem is dirty hard 7c+/8a (and completely independant?)

"It is not a right hand finish to tetris but more a sitdown right hand start to the hanging slab problem."

Percy B

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#8 Re: Columns
November 27, 2008, 05:30:19 pm
Dunno - ask Mick! Ru's theory that the problem starting up tetris than traversing right along the lip is easier than tetris doesn't sound right to me. I did tetris within a couple of goes, but haven't done the traverse. Mind you, its horses for courses. Maybe Ru's horse is on crack?

As for the grade, ace of spades is my best guess......or maybe three of clubs.....

ferret

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#9 Re: Columns
November 28, 2008, 02:40:51 am
this problem starts exactly as tetrus, mike finished up the 7a slab, i finished up the right arete as it felt like the more logical line, and the style remains consistent, brilliant problem, felt 7c+ for the way i climbed it.

insidently i had to use a double knee match to get my foot on the obvious high foothold, im sure taller climbers wont hav to do such a ridiculous thing but it was a pretty cool move

ferret

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#10 Re: Columns
November 28, 2008, 02:52:44 am
after a quick memory tweek i think my beta was sumat like this;

slap out right (rh) lf does a hook maybe to allow u to take the next sidepull (used for rh on tetrus) as a press (like percy said) i then put rf heel hook in a low pocket and pressed up to the lip (cant remeber if i went right hand or crossed over with left) once reaching the lip i put left knee on right facing feature matched right knee to allow me to get my lf really high on an obious good edge, once uv done this matching the lip is easy. shuffled hands a bit then jumped to the right arete (easy but very cool move) followed by an easy mantle up.


Ru

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#11 Re: Columns
November 28, 2008, 07:29:29 am
Columns isn't a non-problem, it's pretty good. I first did Tetris when writing up that boulder for the guide. I'm pretty sure I did the FA of Tetris, no-one else had claimed it at the time - it was written up in the Staffs guide as V11, but everyone thought it hadn't been done. I certainly named it. When I was trying it, my intention was to mantel out direct. I then tried going left (Tetris as it is now) and failed that session, then did most of Columns but didn't top it out as I still wanted to go direct. I then returned on another session and did Tetris. All of this probably coloured my views on quality and grade, which looking back seem a bit silly.

AndiT

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#12 Re: Columns
November 28, 2008, 07:57:48 am
So, is that it confirmed? Start sitting as for Tetris but instead aim for the hanging arete on the right (i.e. a sit start into the lip traverse). Being as both the lip traverse and trust are similar graded problems and effectively only a move apart, I doubt which finish you chose will have much affect on the overall grade and the line in the guidebook would still loook the same.

I was always under the impression it started on the right, I'm glad I was wrong.

dave

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#13 Re: Columns
November 28, 2008, 08:58:22 am
maybe mick will see this and clarify straight from the mouth de chevau.

 

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