[Nibile]

alex huber, 1996, 9a.
adam ondra, 2008, 9a+.
'nuff said, respect to the big guy and to the young guy.

[Paul B]

I think its already been reported on here Nibile however it is worthy of two topics 

[r-man]

http://lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=7446
http://cs.euroclimbing.com/?p=2814

[T_B]

http://lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=7446
http://cs.euroclimbing.com/?p=2814

Could be Peak limestone!

[Jaspersharpe]

Yeah, the flake on the right looks like it could do with a bit of sika.

[Nibile]

sorry,
it was under "chuffing", dunno why...
 

[Kingy]

Here is an english translation of the crux section.

...after the rest position there's a long move to a bad pinch for the left hand. Then it is tricky to fix yourself with some hooks at the roof's edge before reaching with the right hand to the key hold. This is first taken as a crimp and it seems to be very bad. You'll then have to solve the hook and prevent any swing. Get your feet higher and sort the right hold as a side pull. Then a very long move with the left hand into a 2-finger-pocket. Another two finger pocket for the right hand. Than you'll have to change the hands on the right pocket: right middle finger out of the pocket. Left ring finger in the pocket. Right hand back to the prior finger pocket. Sorting the left fingers in the upper pocket and a long move to an undercling hold with right. That's the crux.

At least there's no finger swaps in 2 finger pockets. Oh wait...

[Jaspersharpe]

Funky sequence. 

Perhaps that's why Sharma thought something had broken off it. Couldn't fit his sausage fingers into the pocket for the one finger swap. 

[robertostallioni]

Seem to remember an old Huber interview, which gave the impression the second pocket was(for him) a mono, and he fell many times here trying to swap hands/fingers whilst doing a momentum 'pull-in'.

[Kingy]

Does anybody remember the grade of the first part of the route into the rest before the crux?  Also, how good is the rest?

[Kingy]

Its a 13m 8a+ up to the rest then the crux, the whole route is 35m long apparently.

[robertostallioni]

I thought it was an 8a+ to the start of the route....Which doesn't mean a great deal as it may well be the second pitch, as such.

[Kingy]

Aye, I think you're right there. I got this from the 'Unrepeated' article on 8a.nu:

Open air, 9a, -96, Schleierwasserfall, Aus, Alex Huber, ~22m(~35m)

Open air is Alex Huber's sport-climbing legacy, the hardest route he ever climbed, and that should tell you soemething considering his track-record. This route long endurance route, with a vicious crux close to the top, should very much a contender for an upgrade, and is, in fact, already called 9a/+ in the Tyrol Routebook. The reason for different heights for the route is that you have to climb an 8a+ to reach the start of  the route. At least that's my interpretation.

[Kingy]

Here is more info from a recent Ondra interview:

Hardly anyone can imagine the moves to a 9a+. Could you break down the route in terms of bouldering grades and say something about the route?

The route is quite bouldery. First 25 meters is maybe 8a+ [french], than you can sit on a ledge. From here you continue for 15m long roof- also about 8a+ fr- to the first good hold. Above it there is a boulder passage (about 7B?) and you got the second good jug. Basically, the route starts here– a boulder problem about 8A+. Up to here it´s relatively easy climbing; you are not quite pumped but also not fresh. It doesn´t matter if the roof is 7b or 8a+, the important thing is that you have to climb 20m  hanging on your hands.
Above the crux you are rewarded by tasty and easy vertical climbing with nice view of Kitzbühel. All in all: 8a+,8a+,7B,8A+, easy finish.

So here's the math above the sit down rest: 15m 8a+ roof to a good hold. Then V8 to a second jug. Then V12 into an easy but tasty vertical headwall. Nice.

[robertostallioni]

Good Sleuthing skills...

easy vertical climbing with nice view of Kitzbühel

Which is good 'cos the crag itself is like a graffitied illegal immigrant holding camp.

[shark]

IIRC Huber climbed his hardest FA's in what he called "red-cross" style ie clipping a lot of the lower bolts so the climbing up to and including the crux was on top-rope. Was Open Air one of them ? 

[Kingy]

I haven't heard anything about this but as long as he was capable of downclimbing the ground covered by the clips I have no issue.

[robertostallioni]

As I remember, the crag really doesn't lend itself to downclimbing......like climbing rainshadow(thru' a bulge)...

you can sit on a ledge. From here you continue for 15m long roof- also about 8a+

But then having said that, Open Air is the same aspect as many of his other hard routes, so if he 'redcrossed' them there is no reason he couldn't do the same here I suppose. Maybe he'll be on in a minute to confirm.

[shark]

I haven't heard anything about this but as long as he was capable of downclimbing the ground covered by the clips I have no issue.

My understanding was this wasn't the case. I thought it sounded dodgy at the time (which is why I remember) though he was quite open in reporting this style. The justification was that the moves were too hard to make the clips possible.

[Kingy]

[My understanding was this wasn't the case. I thought it sounded dodgy at the time (which is why I remember)

Did you read it in the mags?

If you look at the pics of Open Air above, there is only one bit that could not be downclimbed by a 9a+ climber, the V12 crux and the clip is below that.

[PATRuL]

http://
I think the main point is he probably enjoyed himself, which for a man counts for quite alo,t and hence humps the grade up considerably.
I was wondering should i wear my flares turned up or turned down?

[robertostallioni]

On the UKC News pic he is not only leading the crux but putting the draws in as he goes. For the camera or Fo' Reel?

PATRul- Flares turned down Deffo. The ever-widening aspect of the 70's flare was never made for turning up. Indeed when folded over the flared turn-up actually gathers substantially MORE dust/chalk than a traditional turn-up, leading to more time being spent on attire prep, and less on redpointing hard sport. Such behaviour would have the inventor, Mr Franklin D. Bellbottom turning in his grave.

[Kingy]

I dunno, we don't even know if there is anything to these allegations of dodgy preclipping. I met the bloke in Kalymnos, i'll give him the benefit.

[shark]

I was talking about the way Huber climbed some of his FA's as he described it in the mags at the time.

Redcrossing only caught on in Preston. I'm fairly sure Ondra isn't from Preston.

[GCW]

Watch what you say 'bout preston, Lee.