[Rhys]

I'm getting sick of being told that the population are beasts with no idea of footwork, so I started thinking of a potenial circuit of technical problems to show visiting mates. The only problem is I can only think of the Caseg Groove and the Ramp at the Dome! Can anyone suggest problems that require no power/ strengh, any grade. You know, where you have to be like water..
Cheers :D

[Pantontino]

I do take it on the chin for this particular charge - N Wales bouldering is predominantly thuggish - albeit often tricky, complex and sustained.

However, there a some stark exceptions that break the rule.

Check out Willy 2 Goes (V8), a super smooth and highball slab line on the Meadow, Nick's Sexual Problem (V8) in Cwm Glas Bach, or Fish Skin Wall (V7) down by Llyn Peris, or The Slot (V7) at Porth Ysgo, or The Seam (V3) on the Pont y Gromlech slabs, or Envy (V5/6), Throbber's Arete (V6), Pete's Wall (V5) at Craig y Llwyfan, or The Idwal Arete (V6) at Idwal Cottage Crag, or come to think of it just about anything at the Braichmelyn Boulder (aka Super Boulder) in Bethesda and the Gimp (V8) and Main Vein (V10) on the Caseg Boulder.

Also check out for Pete Robin's recent addition to Split Infinity: Bellpig (V8+/9) - it might be quite steep, but it has that distinctive subtle Font feel. This is still unrepeated - quite remarkable when you consider all the attention that the Parisella's problems get.

I guess I better shut up before I get carried away.

[Rhys]

Wow! Whats Willy 2 goes? At the Meadow, highball AND a slab point me at it, please! Also, Bellpig? I'm going to start putting more time in at the Great Orme (off tommorrow in fact) but I've never heard of it?

By the way I finally got The Minimum last week, chuffed! Been trying it off and on for a good while now- the breakthrough came after someone showed me how to crimp properly! :shock:
Anyway, Cheers for the info :D .

[Rhys]

Any info on Bellpig? Quite keen to have a bash next time I'm in the cave. Cheers. :D
p.s. I'm off to live in Bangor tomorrow for Uni :up:

[Doylo]

use a left kneebar to get the left hand sidepull (important to use a thumb on top), slap the lip, bring your left leg through and get a heel toe with your right, then slap in desperation to the sloper (completely blind).

[Pantontino]

I boned my shin on the first move yesterday when the smear ripped as I relaxed into the kneebar - OOOUUUCCCHHH!!!! I think I might go and get an X-ray because it it still really hurts today.

It definitely feels harder since the top of the sidepull disappeared - perhaps V9/10 now?

Katz is too short for the original method, so he managed to match the slopey lip! Still couldn't get any further though.

[Doylo]

U done Choclate Dip yet?

[dmitri]

Nought rong with a bit of thuggery :D

Much prefer it to intricate slabs! Altho they have a special place in my heart 2!

[jimbo]

Where abouts is chocolate dip ?

[Pantontino]

No Chris, I have yet to reach the finishing line on Chocolate Wall (I've always hated Klemmow's original name).
After you left that day I held the shield 5 times, but failed to match - weak fingers I suppose. never mind, it will be mine as soon as it gets cold again! (Anyway, thanks for the beta.)

Jimbo, did you get Climber this month? These problems are just underneath Katz on his new route - some people call it Chain Gang Wall, but we know it as Pill Box Wall. it can be greasy if there is no wind, but when dry it gives some of the best problems on the Ormes.

[jimbo]

Nice one Si, will check it out when I am back in Llandudno, undoubtedly fully wasted after fat cat session.

[Pantontino]

I went in the Fat Cat last Sunday for the first time in years (well since Chris Davies lived in Llandudno), and lo and behold it has grown sideways - in fact it is twice as big now.

We had tea, coffee, scones and toasted teacakes prior to a session on Marine Drive. All very civilised. I could see it becoming a regular haunt again this winter.