[Evoman]

Now then, awesome line, awesome problem, improbably hard climbing compared to 'how it looks', but what's the beta for exiting the twin cracks when you have your hands in the high holds and right foot firmly planted on the high smear?

What's really annoying is the fact I'm sure I saw some video footage of this problem, but can I find it again? Can I feck.  Apart from a three photo sequence of Andrew Earl that incidently doesn't show with the move I'm talking about, is there any beta / videos / other photos of the Crack? No links to indecent pictures please

Rich

[Kingy]

Moony does it in Stick it

[Evoman]

Cheers Kingy, took a look at the trailer, shows some nice problems though not the Crack... might have to order one for a late Christmas present to myself

[Andy Harris]

it's a long time since i've done it but when you have your right foot on the obvious hold you just keep standing up on it until your right leg is pretty much straight and you get a nice 2 finger pocket with your RH, the rest is easy.

i always remember when this was a project of Gav Ellis's. He used to rave about how amazing it was and we scoffed at how crap it looked on our way to childs play as part of the warm up. How right he was. It would have to be in my top 5 of all time.

[Evoman]

Okay thanks Andy, I didn't see the two finger pocket, is it directly up or out right? It was my first time on the problem and once I managed to make headway which I was really chuffed at, I was trying to suss out if you exit the crack early straight up or continue with the crack out left.  Wish I lived closer so I could jump back on it soon.

Rich

[rodma]

pocket is almost dead centre between the continuation of the crack and the arete

[Evoman]

just taken a look at some pictures of it again, I see the pocket!  Next time...

[Johnny Brown]

if you're weak and feeble like me, or its a zillion degrees, you might want to use the arete as intermediates for your right - chalked in photo, top one is the better.

[Falling Down]

Coincidentally me and Mrs FD cleared our loft our yesterday and I was able to get at my photo box. I have the FA of this problem captured on a few slides with Jerry wearing tights and a vest so if anyone's got a slide scanner I'd like to borrow it 'cos I've got a heap of Old Skool pics that are worth sharing.

[dave]

shit, i don't have a slide scanner, but i'm almost to tempted to go out and buy one for this very cause.

[philo]

good problem, im sure ive seen a version on Utube too.  the sitter is a little bit harder since the first undercut got pulled off at speed into someones face  . its been done since tho so i dont think it makes a massive difference.