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Mystery Birchens Probs (Read 9703 times)

al

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#25 Mystery Birchens Probs
November 04, 2005, 02:40:45 pm
think mark's problem is 'the brigand', but still not sure where it goes, or where I got the 8a number from! (it gets E something 7a in the book)- (the arete i meant was fo'c'stle arete/broadside, which is great from a sitter)
also meant 'obstructive pensioner', when I mentioned a nice V6 right of hornblower - really exciting but a definite boulder problem (as opposed to E4 6c in the guides)

Bonjoy

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#26 Mystery Birchens Probs
November 04, 2005, 03:40:57 pm
Aaah, so the project right of OP remains to be done.

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#27 Mystery Birchens Probs
November 05, 2005, 05:16:01 pm
Things which are really boulder problems will go in the new BMC guide as boulder problems, in the same style as the new Roaches guide.

al

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#28 Mystery Birchens Probs
November 06, 2005, 11:32:52 am
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Aaah, so the project right of OP remains to be done.

think so, not heard anything - nice smooth rock!

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#29 Mystery Birchens Probs
November 07, 2005, 10:32:39 am
good old JR flashing.... does it count if you stay at the crag for more than one day?

Bonjoy

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#30 Mystery Birchens Probs
November 23, 2005, 11:25:06 am
The decription off the UKC database (which generally uses the exact wording of the FA) makes it sound like the brigand goes up the right side of the wall.
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The Brigand E4 7a  Mark Katz solo May 1997  

  The ground right of Broadside over the overlap to a poor pocket and bottomless crack to the top. Hard start. Start by stepping off a block, the short may need to use a cheating stone as well. The tall may be able to miss out the block by using a sidepull when doing the rockover. (10m)

 This sound to me like the line just left of the corner.
 If so the wall to it's left is a quality unclimbed hard project

cofe

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#31 Re: Mystery Birchens Probs
August 24, 2008, 11:19:43 pm
me and scouse had a pleasant evening at birchen tonight. scouse did the sitter to focsicle/broadside which is excellent and also what we reckon is a new prob - a blank wall just left of moby dick in a steep gully. involves a morpho reach to a nano-hoist - hard to grade; he flashed it but i could barely span it. midgets would have to freestyle.

also, has anyone done gritstone megamix - looks like an outstanding highball? and has the brigand been repeated? a good line - would be good to get an idea of font grade.

 

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