[Houdini]

Drew, your idea of low-rent scanky womanhood should hit the shit heap.  Pfft!

[Jaspersharpe]

In my opinion this thread shows UKB in it's best light. Honest congratulations for a fantastic ascent veering completely  to a discussion of sartorial elegance / brown cords and all done in the best possible taste (K. Everett - 1982).

I can imagine how the thread on the same subject will have gone over on Cocktalk and it's not a pretty thought.

[andy_e]

"Well then if this is only E9 then surely Partheon Shot is E4 and it means I'll be able to solo Indian Face next week!"

[Jaspersharpe]

 

"If this is the direct start and he's also done a direct finish then why didn't he do the direct finish with the direct start..........what french grade is it.........and surely this means McLeod's 8c solo is E14.......etc etc"

I'm guessing here but it's got to be similar.

[SA Chris]

It's not really E9 because he didn't onsight it.

[webbo]

"Well then if this is only E9 then surely Partheon Shot is E4 and it means I'll be able to solo Indian Face next week!"

then we hopefully see the demise of the said brown cords.

[andy_e]

No, they will live on through my tragic(?) death.

[webbo]

have you specified cremation.

[andy_e]

Only if they can scoop up enough bits of me for it to be worth it.

[Drew]

"If this is the direct start and he's also done a direct finish then why didn't he do the direct finish with the direct start..........what french grade is it.........etc"

Well Grandpa's Slab (or whatever it's called), isn't really the direct on BT. It's still got half the traverse in it, but just doesn't step all the way out to the arete.

This direct start does go up the arete, so to my mind, the logical finish is the standard BT crux. However, the direct start, into Grandpa's slab, could be another possibility, except that after the crux, you would step left, and would therefore be able to place some of the BT gear.

Oui? Non?

[Idol eyes]

I found the moves on Grandads slab too intricate to place gear, I went up the E4 arete (gear), dyno slapped the sloper peg slot and mounted this foot to hand! once stood here, I would have got a buddy to place the peg and done the crux,,, really good route!!! I only top roped it!