Wednesday saw the first ascents of two of the tightest eliminates yet on Upper Wall. While discerning climbers may bemoan the lack of quality and gear, the first ascent team were just happy to get their names in the guidebook. Local climbers, having long since learned to look beyond mere `lines' in the quest for new routes, will recognise their appeal, doubtless agreeing that these additions are unlikely to become vegetated in the future, which at Avon almost merits a star in itself. Um Bongo, E6 6c, takes the wall between Rancho Cocamonga and What About Me?, and is flashable by the talented if chalked up and demonstrated. It can even finish `independently' to the left of Rancho. The line of All Hail The Underdog E5 6a ish, between Rancho and Banshee, is perhaps a little more obvious, if only because a foot to either side of it and the climber is off route on jugs. No doubt these two may only be included in future guidebooks as pointless variations to existing adjacent climbs, and realistically can only aspire to become top rope problems beloved of Upper Wall's select band of E2 leaders. Correspondents close to the first ascentionist have even dismissed these ascents altogether, as `just his latest attempt to avoid getting on Arms Race'.
FA J Parrott, H Allan 5/3/2008 (shamelessly top roped the hell out of first)
A short note on the grading of new routes:
These grades have been output by the Avon Gorge New Route Grade Random Number Generator tm. and are completely untrustworthy.
In other local news:
More new sport routes put up at Cheddar.
More new sport routes fall down at Cheddar.
`Last great trad line' discovered under ivy at Cheddar (Placebo, VS 4c, H Allan, J Parrott, 1/3/08).
Traffic chaos in centre of Bristol as crane erected, people delayed slightly.
Mrs Muggins has left her gate open on Sark, police on standby.
