UKBouldering.com

Whats your grade? (Read 7118 times)

dave

  • Guest
#25 Whats your grade?
August 20, 2003, 02:15:02 pm
fuck i've tried that thinking it looked piss and it turns crazy shots on me.

if i remember theres a "big" sidepull lowdown, then jack.

mark

Online
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 576
  • Karma: +20/-0
#26 Whats your grade?
August 20, 2003, 02:20:44 pm
That's the one. I've once made it to the diagonal sloper at the top. Foot in pocket, step up for the top was all that was left to do. But no, foot shot out of pocket depositing me on mat for the 1000th time, sobbing into my chalkbag.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#27 Whats your grade?
August 20, 2003, 03:02:17 pm
Quote from: "Scouse D"
Or do you mean Hart's Arete at Pex which is definately the hardest V2 on the planet. It is actually really hard.

Thats the one...
Hard as nails, I also really like that silly boy problem on pisa wall... another hard problem at only V3
Pex hill is definately worth going to but take a large mat or eight as its quite highball. The breck is another good venue down that way, well worth a visit but a bit ugly (ie graffitti)

Paz

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 965
  • Karma: +28/-3
#28 Whats your grade?
August 20, 2003, 03:15:14 pm
The main one is Chimes of Freedom start, 6a my arse.

mozzer

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 143
  • Karma: +0/-0
#29 Whats your grade?
August 22, 2003, 03:41:17 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
I remember having a bit of an epic on the first two (VS) pitches of Coronation Street in Cheddar when I was quite happily climbing about E4/5 at the time. It was all weird off-widths and and crap like that and just seemed impossible!


Yo props to all the Ukbouldering posse from Greece!

Yeah me and all. While I certainly am not an E4 climber, I was fairly confidant on VS  - but these pitches spanked me. Found the rest of the route OK. Actually felt quite necky at one point - maybe Im just shite at limestone.

Found some wicked bouldering in Greece near the beach - but couldnt really crimp in 35 degree heat. Went in the morning first thing and found it OK, but sacked it off and sat on the beach pretty sharpish.

Laters

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#30 Whats your grade?
August 22, 2003, 04:26:44 pm
Hi Mozzer - must be kinda warm in Greece!

Where's the bouldering at? I couldn't find any when I went....

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1180
  • Karma: +16/-1
#31 Whats your grade?
August 22, 2003, 06:07:14 pm
Quote from: "mark"
That's the one. I've once made it to the diagonal sloper at the top. Foot in pocket, step up for the top was all that was left to do. But no, foot shot out of pocket depositing me on mat for the 1000th time, sobbing into my chalkbag.



Hmm, I've seen junior Montchausse casually stroll up it!

dave

  • Guest
#32 Whats your grade?
August 23, 2003, 11:24:57 pm
Quote from: "dobbin"
Quickly harking back to the Pex debate - go, its well worth a visit. Re that Dyno in the picture, I think I did it statically years ago...  :wink:


me and the boyz were at pex today. there was a lot of damp stuff and it rained on and off all the time, we still got loads done, but no routes. That dyno in the pic is pretty shit really and not a true dyno, the ones just right are better.

also did this harts arete jobby, was a good problem, i agree quite touch despite being ok when you do it. I don't think calling this V2 is either big or clever. Lets face it, no boulders who's limit is around V2 is going to do it!

Bubba

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 15367
  • Karma: +286/-6
#33 Whats your grade?
August 24, 2003, 10:08:29 am
Not much of an arete is it?

Does everything top out at Pex or do you get a boulderers tick for jumping off lower down?

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#34 Whats your grade?
August 24, 2003, 10:08:33 pm
Some of it does and some of it doesn't, harts arete finishes at the break as do most of the eliminates on pisa wall but theres lots of straight up problems on pisa and lady jane wall that top out.

dave

  • Guest
#35 lets talk about pex baby
August 25, 2003, 09:29:26 am
The full Hart's Arete is an E4, and its not one of those "boulder problem to easier top out" kind of things, the boulder problem only constitutes about 1/3 height, and you need gear for the top bit (or so scouse assured me) and it was dirty. Yeah its not much of an arete, more a gnarled rib, bit it does go full height.

a lot of the problems on lady jane wall are gritstone-like, easy moves to a break, hard rockover to stand up, tricky more to a jug pockets then 4b finish.

mozzer

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 143
  • Karma: +0/-0
#36 Whats your grade?
August 25, 2003, 06:07:08 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
Where's the bouldering at? I couldn't find any when I went....


Only found some when I was on the beach for a week. It actually looks like there is loads of limestone wall climbing, probably sport but maybe a bit of trad too. Wasnt allowed though so sneaked off and found a bit before the missus shouted at me too much.

Basically around the eastern side of the Pelopponese seems to be loads of limestone. I would hardly rate it really but i think there must be loads more out in Greece totally untouched. Best get finding it!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal