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New Froggatt Problem - Scandalous, 7b (Read 3217 times)

Tommy

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New Froggatt Problem - Scandalous, 7b
February 12, 2008, 11:43:53 pm
Thought I'd let anyone who's interested know of a new problem I've done at Froggatt.

It's on the other side of the Pea Crab Shuffle block i.e. the 10 deg overhanging face, facing downhill, which has a very long, sloping breaking running along it at mid-height.

Start at the middle (on the obvious sloping, pebbley holds, where there's plenty of chalk  ::) ) and traverse leftwards along the 'orrible rounded break (with some spicy jams occasionally) until the left arete. Make tricky moves around the arete and top out on the highball fluttery arete. The final scary couple of moves are ok, I promise! Grade: Font 7b-ish. Name: Scandalous.

The entire back face all linked together would be possible, but is fucking desperate - a real power endurance test-piece for sure. This problem essentially takes the most "friendly" part of the back face in a pumpy 13 move problem with a nice airy finish. Spotters definitely advised.


r-man

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#1 Re: New Froggatt Problem - Scandalous, 7b
February 13, 2008, 12:45:59 am
Excellent! Sounds spicy...

Jacqusie

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#2 Re: New Froggatt Problem - Scandalous, 7b
February 13, 2008, 01:03:45 pm
Nice one - glad you got it done in the end in time & yes I agree - the whole link up looks well nails - the gauntlet's thrown well & truly down before the guide print deadline!!

si

north_country_boy

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#3 Re: New Froggatt Problem - Scandalous, 7b
February 15, 2008, 09:20:50 pm
Saw this chalked midweek before you obviously did it! Break traverse looks spicey indeed with some nice cheese grater jams!!

However, on which side of the arete does this finish? The overhanging righthand side above the traversed break or around on its left round the corner....?

Tommy

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#4 Re: New Froggatt Problem - Scandalous, 7b
February 17, 2008, 11:00:06 am
It finishes by climbing the arete on the left hand side - to me this seemed to the line of weakness and had a slightly better landing. I'm not sure you wouldn't want to give it an E-grade if you climbed it on the RHS! It's a really weird move to get your body round on the left side of arete, as it all slopes the wrong way, but rest assured, if you can get it working it's definitely the way forward. A finger jam with the left hand helps...  :whistle: and there's also a sneaky pebble ...

Tommy

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#5 Re: New Froggatt Problem - Scandalous, 7b
February 19, 2008, 11:18:27 pm
Finally worked out how to post a photo. I think...

So, anyway, here's a photo of the above said problem.

 

 

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