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Bowden Doors - Tranformer LH start (Read 2628 times)

stewartbb

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Bowden Doors - Tranformer LH start
February 11, 2008, 02:43:50 pm
I was at Bowden the other day and did Transformer Lefthand Start - at what I presume was the 7C version.  I'm a little confused as to what is in and out for the feet though - The only place I used the right hand side for my feet was right at the beggining to gain the initail crimp with the left hand and then used the starting jug and heel / toe hooks on the lip-come-arrete itself to finish the problem.

This is, as far as I know, the way to do it - but I'm not sure about the starting foothold I used.  Also looking here http://www.climbonline.co.uk/Richie-Duffy-on-Transformer.jpg it seems that all the footholds are in, or is that another variation?  The foothold that I used is a little to the left of where his left foot is in that photo, next to the weed.

So what's in and out? Is getting the first crimp actually ment to be hard? I only ask as I feel a little guilty about taking the tick if I did it wrong.

Cheers,
Stewy

stewartbb

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#1 Re: Bowden Doors - Tranformer LH start
February 11, 2008, 02:57:08 pm
Sigh,

Just found the answer to my own question:


I feel better now!

Cheers,
Stewy

Paul B

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#2 Re: Bowden Doors - Tranformer LH start
February 11, 2008, 05:32:43 pm
Sigh,

Just found the answer to my own question:


I feel better now!

Cheers,
Stewy

I guess the earl was probably there when that was recorded and therefore you can take the tick as he is about as local as you'll get however i've always been told that the right wall was out completely.

The question you've got to ask yourself is whether or not it felt correct for the grade?  :shrug:

philo

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#3 Re: Bowden Doors - Tranformer LH start
February 11, 2008, 06:17:53 pm
if you can sleep at night with using the right foot to start :P
and the first move to the crimp is ok, get a heel on the same bit as your left hand and its o, right foot low betwee the right bit and the left bit.  dont know if you can take the tick this way, it doesnt make it that much easier?
we were doing this on sat and not using right side at all,
one lad did it but this was the end of the day but alot of confusion was over the right hand wall, he didnt use it at all but others thought the start right foot was in.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2008, 06:25:28 pm by philo »

stewartbb

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#4 Re: Bowden Doors - Tranformer LH start
February 11, 2008, 08:01:10 pm
Cheers for the comments,

I think I can sleep at night taking the right foothold as being in after that video aye but next time I'm there I'll do it without, just to make sure.  ;D

I've been told, however, that Andy says turning the pinch into an undercut was not done originally and the problem was graded at 7C for that method.  The undercut has apparently gotten somewhat bigger since the first ascent - probably why undercutting is now what's done...  I reckon it's more 7B+ or even 7B as a result - that's how it felt anyway.

Paul B

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#5 Re: Bowden Doors - Tranformer LH start
February 11, 2008, 09:03:29 pm
videos can be misleading, no matter who features in them...sleep well   ;D

 

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