[dave k]

More than half of the crimp under the roof broke off this afternoon. Shame as I had just failed on the very last move the go before. Post breakage I had a play (just to check if it was still climbable) in its new state and managed to climb past the crimp. The crimp which was always pretty vital is now rather less friendly and the problem is now an even tougher 7b+.

If anyone feels it is worth sticking it back on, I have the piece that broke off. Personally I don`t think there is much point. I don`t think it would stay on long due to its shape, it is still climbable, the rest of the hold looks solid and it may even have become the 7c is was always meant to be!

[mini]

There are plenty of eliminate ways around that section with no real grade change, so I would leave it in it's current state rather than create a sika scar.

I'd also be tempted to bare you from all Staffordshire crags if you insist on breaking things

[dave k]

 

Only 2 holds broken in 16 years. Both in the last year though. I must be getting stronger (or fatter!)

How does the problem finish? I have one way up the nose (6b+), but it requires a  hop to get left foot on, which is easily fluffable. I can`t imagine you lanky lads use this method? 

[AndiT]

Only 2 holds broken in 16 years. Both in the last year though. I must be getting stronger (or fatter!)

How does the problem finish? I have one way up the nose (6b+), but it requires a  hop to get left foot on, which is easily fluffable. I can`t imagine you lanky lads use this method?

That's the way... grim isn't it.