[Greg Chapman]

Has anyone been to this spot it? Its on the coast just south of Aberdeen.  I was there on Wednesday afternoon and its quite a nice spot although there does not look as much room for development as reported in the mags. There is one problem which is magnificent called "The Pit" (7a) which envolves some awsome moves off undercuts and another called "The Buzz" (7b) which I thought was hard at the grade but again awsome. There is a small sport climbing section which has some problems at its base the best of which is "Get in the Groove" (7b) which is definatly a bit overgraded but again pretty good.

The spot is worth a visit if your in the area as its about five minutes from the car and in a sweet location, nice view etc. One note to the topo writter if he reads this, on the approach instructions why not just use the names of the roads instead of third cul de sac on the left and so forth, which gets a bit confusing depending on which way your coming from.

Greg

[dom]

i've been there a few times, and although the boulders may seem quite small the problems are top quality.  There is quite a lot of room for development if you walk down the cost a couple hundred meters.  the first time i visited i got completely lost, walked past the boulders and climbed on some others mistaking them for the boulders in the guide.  quite dangerous warming up on a hard highball problem i though was 5c.  havn't tried any of the problems in the pit tho, they seem too hard for me.

[John M]

I'll be up that way in 3 weeks time.

Where can I get the topo's from?
Are they on-line, along with the directions?
If not which guidebook do I need for bouldering in the area?

Ta John M :?:

[dom]

the new ne outcrops guide is out now, that has all the info on the bouldering and sport climbing there and other places in the NE.  Its worth getting that if your going to do some other climbing in the area.  If you just want to boulder there the guide is at http://www.scotlandonline.com/outdoors/portlethen/index.htm
its a good guide just follow the directions carefully as the path leading down to the boulders is easy to miss.  It doesn't have any info on the sport climbs there tho.
if your in the area for a while there is an other bouldering area near a town called alford about 20 miles west of aberdeen. its not as good as portlethen but is worth it for a days visit.  the guide is at
http://www.scottishclimbs.com/guidepage.php?guideid=9
its mostly easy grades, but there are a handfull of tough problems.

[r-man]

Will be in Aberdeen for a day, so I might have the chance to check out Portlethen.

Does anyone have a copy of the topo they could send me? It doesn't appear to be online anymore. Would be much appreciated.

Also, any recommendations for good ft7's to have a bash at, plus any other local classics at whatever grade. Greg's suggestions sound good, just thought I'd see if there was any other knowledge out there...

Cheers!

[andy_e]

The Prow on the Sea Pig boulder, font 6c if I remember rightly but absolutely class!

[fashionguru]

Was up this way in August.

Try anything on the pit boulder they are all brilliant and also try out the sea pig boulder, oh and dont forget the turtle trav as well if you get the tide right.

If you get time drive up to Cummingston not too far away by Scottish stds but there is some awesome here too and prob a better venue with more stuff to throw yourselves at.

Tony

[SA Chris]

if your in the area for a while there is an other bouldering area near a town called alford about 20 miles west of aberdeen. its not as good as portlethen but is worth it for a days visit.  the guide is at
http://www.scottishclimbs.com/guidepage.php?guideid=9
its mostly easy grades, but there are a handfull of tough problems.

I assume you referring to the Luaths Stones here? If so, I don't think it's that great. A few good problems, but not really worth the detour. Lovely spot though. Guide is actually here http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Luath_Stone_Boulders

I don't think it's ever been made out that there is much potential for further development at Portlethen (these boulders are actually called Craigmarionn) itself, I think Tim Rankin has literally left no stone unturned there, but there has been further development up and down the coast. Also at Portlethen are the boulders at Cammachmore Bay (which is not actually at Cammachmore) http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Cammachmore_Bay and Arnot Boo http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Arnot_Boo. Both have similar landings and rock quality to Craigmarionn, but have seen less traffic. Heading east along the coast from Downies (where you park for Cammachmore) is a good slab / wall with some good stuff and a steep roof just below it, plus Clashfarquar just further along.  Stone Country gives directions and describes a few of the classier problems at Craigmarrionn and there is a printed topo to them too (which I have lost), otherwise NE Outcrops has info on it. There is also some OK bouldering to be had at Boltsheugh and Dyke's Cliff (mostly eliminates and traverses) near Newtonhill and on my doorstep at Muchalls http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Muchalls_Shore which is a bit more spread out, the best stuff is unfortunately very tidal and conditions dependant.

Most of the stuff on this coast is affected in some way or another by tides so it is worth checking a tide table and a bit of a breeze and cool weather helps with drying out.

However (and I had to say it)  if you have the time and are driving up, Glen Clova is worth checking out. Great Scenery, good lines (both climbed and unclimbed) good rock and a great hotel for food and/or drink (with bunkhouse). Current details here http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Glen_Clova_Bouldering It's probably a half hour detour from the A90 though.

If anyone is up here I unfortunately can't do any guiding during the day, but if you get rained off I can get down to Transition on the beach for lunchtime sessions. Just give me a day of advance warning.

Hope this helps.

[GCW]

Will be in Aberdeen for a day, so I might have the chance to check out Portlethen.

Does anyone have a copy of the topo they could send me? It doesn't appear to be online anymore. Would be much appreciated.

Also, any recommendations for good ft7's to have a bash at, plus any other local classics at whatever grade. Greg's suggestions sound good, just thought I'd see if there was any other knowledge out there...

When are you going?  I could sort you a guide, and the Sports wall and Pit stuff are good.

Coolboy's done a fair bit there and down the coast at Cammachmore.  Short vids of a few Porty problems:

The Buzz 7a+, Pain Extension 7a, The Barrel 7a


The Pain 7a


Barrel of Slappers 7a+

[GCW]

Scanned/ photocopied etc Portlethen Guide

[r-man]

Cheers. Unfortunately I only just saw this, but I'll use it if I'm up there again. Portlethen seems like a nice spot, though I literally had half an hour to play and no pads, so I just messed around on the Sport Wall. Did the Shake Your Booty sitter then had to leave, but I'd like to go back some day and do the full circuit.

Found this, which may or may not be of use to people - it's a guide to bouldering in North East Scotland. Has directions to each crag, though its weak on problem location. http://www.stonecountry.co.uk/Great_Stones_Article_5_-_Bouldering_NE.pdf

[SA Chris]

its weak on problem location

Never.