[quejada]

Hi everyone,
just need some clarification about the famous T-crack at Cratcliffe, which in its easiest version is, if I'm not wrong, a B8. Now, browsing the net I found 2 videos on youtube, in which the climbers use completely different holds to start the problem: in the first video the guy uses 2 undercuts for the hans and pushes with the feet on a block at the bottom of the cave to reach the first hold for the right hand, then keeps using that block to climb up till he reaches the ledge where he matches the hands but stills sort of standing on the block till he jumps out to the sloper at the top.
Since in the other video it says 'T-crack in the original and purest way' and the guy basically deadhangs from the starting holds and then campus-boards his way up to the top, I was wondering whether the first method was 'allowed' or it is condidered a bit like cheating, as from what I see in the video it makes it much easier.
I'm gonna be at cratcliffe in 10 days and wanted to have a go at it but of course only in a clean way
Thanks

[Jaspersharpe]

Oh God another grading system.  What's a B8?

[unclesomebody]

This is the strangest sequence I have seen on it... (and I'm not qualified enough to tell you if it's kosher). I certainly didn't do it like that.

[Houdini]

That's a poor way of climbing it. 

[Falling Down]

The guy in the video must be very, very tall (and he uses the chip)

[dave]

theres loads of way of doing it, all varying in level of elliminateness, non natural, all shit. its a poor problem. and yes i have done it.

[quejada]

This is the strangest sequence I have seen on it... (and I'm not qualified enough to tell you if it's kosher). I certainly didn't do it like that.

yeah that's the sequence I was reffering to..really strange. but it definately looks much easier. I didn't know about the chip..which I guess is not in, is it?
so you guys think this sequence is not the proper one?
the other sequence I mentioned is the last problem in this video:



this looks much harder, not very technical though....

[Jaspersharpe]

And where's the chip as it looks like this bloke uses the same holds despite it saying it's the purest version? Can see why you're confused.

[cowboyhat]

Another three minutes I'll never get back. Like the school shirt/trackie bottoms combo it reminds me of some of the less savoury characters in my form circa. 92'.

Sequence is ok, you don't have to campus though. The toe hook is good and there is feet for the move up right. He doesn't go as far left as the chip.

[dave k]

I did it a few years back using the chip out left (which that guy appears to use with his left hand), then recently went back and did it without it which definitely made it a better problem. I did it recently the same way as Sam Whittaker in either Stick it or Hard Grit or One Summer! Sorry can`t remember which.

[Andy B]

It starts off the detached block as per the first video, but doesn't use the chip. Keeping your feet on the block for that long looks much easier than all the methods i've seen it done with, which usually involve toe hooks in the undercuts and/ or sideways toe jams in the slopey pod. As dave says, it is a poor and overated eliminate at a venue with plenty of top notch problems.

[lagerstarfish]

Ha ha. That first video is me fucking up the sequence on a warm day with a hangover - easily my worst ascent of any of the variations - should have tagged it with 'sandbag' . This is easier than 7b - esp when feet don't fly off like that - prob 7a+, but is much more doable when friction is poor. Also, you can work the problem from the left hand pocket by stepping off the block to the left without having to do the start.
Normally, for this easy variation, I get both hands on to the slopey ledge -0.26, keep the feet on top of the block at the back (as they are at -0.26, not swing wildly as in vid) and work hands along slopes to the very positive pocket at left end of ledge (for left hand) where I can rest a bit and chalk up. Then launch and finish as in vid. Anyone strongish over 6' will find this pretty easy. Because the feet stay where they are on the block, it doesn't feel like traversing off problem (which is how it looks on this poor ascent).
I think the pocket on the left end of the ledge is natural - too round and positive to be chipped - you can examine it from standing on the block on the left.
The chipped crimp is below the middle of the sloping ledge. About where the heel of my right hand is when I start the launch (-0.13). Its easier to hold the slopers that the chip.
The best and nicest and most 7b method is as Sam does it on Hard Grit. All versions of it are eliminates of some kind.
I did mess with the sound to make the slaps sound much louder.
Shit.... back to work

[PatKingDebtCollection]

The best and nicest and most 7b method is as Sam does it on Hard Grit

imho too.
in case you are wondering
start hands on top of block at back, then...

sorted?