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Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link (Read 4345 times)

Monolith

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Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 01:25:21 pm
Worthwhile bit of news of an obvious link that went down at the weekend.

On the Pit boulder at Milestone Buttress, Mike Adams linked Pit Start into Harvey Oswald. Offering the name Oldboy, he mooted V10 as the suggested grade.

Being pretty sustained, the deadpoint move to the middle right hand crimp on HO seemed to be the crux for him. However, after a bit of degreasing, a swig of Coke and a few Haribo he stitched it all together in fine style.


Greg C

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#1 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 01:39:10 pm
Nice.  8)

BenF

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#2 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 02:35:22 pm
Offering the name Oldboy, he mooted V10 as the suggested grade.

I think a caveat should be added to this grade.  The logic behind Mick's suggested grade being that he can't do V11's in Wales, therefore since he managed this link it must be V10.  I pointed out at the time that he has climbed more than the odd V11 and V12 in Wales, but he didn't want to budge on the grade.   

Who cares? It's an obvious up, down, up problem.

Pantontino

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#3 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 02:43:35 pm
If you consider that Hock graded the Pit Traverse - Pit and the Pendulum link as V9/Font 7c it probably fits in with the other grades on this block.

The only soft touch here is that V6 on the adjacent boulder (but don't tell Webbo - he'll be crying into his sherry again. ;D)

Monolith

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#4 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 02:47:54 pm
Agreed. Reversing the rail (seemingly a totally different ball game to taking it from right to left on PT) in combination with the deadpoint after doing all that probably accounts for the extra notch to 10.

BenF

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#5 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 02:49:55 pm
If you consider that Hock graded the Pit Traverse - Pit and the Pendulum link as V9/Font 7c it probably fits in with the other grades on this block.

Sounds fair.  What grade is currently being offered for Pit Traverse then?

The only soft touch here is that V6 on the adjacent boulder (but don't tell Webbo - he'll be crying into his sherry again. ;D)

Better not tell Monolith or Ritchie Crouch either.  They reckoned that it was nails and really tough for the grade.  :lol: :lol:  Punters the lot of them, they said it was morpho and desperate for the tall.  Which is no doubt why I was lapping it, being so short and all.  

Sorry Tom and Rich, I had to bring it up sooner or later.

Monolith

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#6 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 03:01:38 pm
Better not tell Monolith or Ritchie Crouch either.  They reckoned that it was nails and really tough for the grade.  

As voted worst boulder problem ever by readers of Crap Problems magazine.

BenF

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#7 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 03:07:29 pm
Or...  as voted "most morpho problem" by lanky climbers who can't use their feet or lift their lower limbs off the ground.

Pantontino

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#8 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 03:10:29 pm
I beg to differ, tis one of my favourite V4s. I and countless others have felt the deep joy of spinning over the top of that strange horizontal pinch. Even Dense seemed to like it. :o

BenF

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#9 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 03:25:33 pm
For sure, that move off the slopey thing to the jug is glorious.  Hence why I did it about five times in front of Monolith.

Even Dense seemed to like it. :o

Bloody hell, he'll be seen doing a circuit at Angel Bay next.

Doylo

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#10 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 03:27:06 pm
good effort, sounds like a hard v10!

Monolith

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#11 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 03:40:27 pm
Ben, pipe down. I thought it started lower than it does at the grade hence my reasoning that it seemed stiff. Regardless, it doesn't strike me as a motivating line as it doesn't involve all my favourtie elements of bouldering.

Doylo, get yourself in the Pit and away from that Malham nonsense with Farnell.

a dense loner

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#12 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 06:41:56 pm
doylo's gettin about a bit these days. tuesdays is his sheffield board night :kiss1:

Andy F

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#13 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 11, 2007, 07:39:00 pm
Doylo, get yourself in the Pit and away from that Malham nonsense with Farnell.

I'd love to be at malham if I wasn't injured. Again  >:(

My shoulder gets settled and then I decide to trash my ankle on my first session down the wall.

webbo

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#14 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 12, 2007, 08:15:14 am
If you consider that Hock graded the Pit Traverse - Pit and the Pendulum link as V9/Font 7c it probably fits in with the other grades on this block.

The only soft touch here is that V6 on the adjacent boulder (but don't tell Webbo - he'll be crying into his sherry again. ;D)

i save crying into my sherry for failures on v1s usually after a trip to the south lakes .on my last raid to n.w.i flashed a v6 but i'm not telling you which one cos you'll only invent a rule to deny me my tick.

Richie Crouch

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#15 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 13, 2007, 12:26:15 am
It was indeed an impressive send by young madams! That problem on the adjacent block would probably be an instant classic if it was in Merseyside, alas it's well brown in comparison to the Pit Boulder  ::)

BenF

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#16 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 13, 2007, 08:09:14 am
If that little V2 on the adjacent block was in Merseyside it would have three eliminate variations too.

Andy F

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#17 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 13, 2007, 03:19:27 pm
Have you done the one handed version yet   ;)

andy_e

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#18 Re: Oldboy V10 -Ogwen Pit Link
September 14, 2007, 02:41:54 am
Don't forget Owen's dyno variant

 

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