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Dolomiti bouldering (Read 3104 times)

RASTATA

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Dolomiti bouldering
July 23, 2007, 11:56:57 am
I just watch a photos from Nibs Dolomiti attack and found out that it looks like good quality lime bouldering. I presume that, despite high altitude, the temperatures are quite pleasant for that time of the year?
So this is a probably a topic for him to enlighten me with some beta. Im particularly interested if any guide book exist for the area, some classic problems that are worth to do and where to stay?

thank you in advance

SA Chris

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#1 Re: Dolomiti bouldering
July 23, 2007, 12:23:09 pm
As it's a direct question, you could pm him?

Somebody's Fool

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#2 Re: Dolomiti bouldering
July 23, 2007, 12:44:58 pm
As it's an area people know little about, maybe others could benefit from a public airing of Nibile's beta?

dobbin

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#3 Re: Dolomiti bouldering
July 23, 2007, 01:41:06 pm
Agreed. I am listening...

Nibile

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#4 Re: Dolomiti bouldering
July 24, 2007, 01:07:25 am
here yo go.
in the dolomites there are quite a few areas.
everything in that post is shot in "città dei sassi" around 2300 meters.
the setting is breath taking: you have the "sassolungo" on your back (imposing) and all the "sella" group in front. further away, the "pordoi", and the whole valley at your feet.
in the field down the boulders (oh, theres also sport climbing) theres a small hut, with a little runnel passing by, where you can eat, sleep in the barn, get drunk with the owner, feel the mountains.
the bouldering is very very fun.
almost everything is very steep, with pockets and edges. on almost every proble, you can either drop down or topout on very easy terrain. alot of sitters, a few traverses, in general many easy problems and many in the 7a/7b range, up to 8a+. it can be hard navigating the area, cos its all boulders, so i suggest a few time spent in getting familiar. anyway you can just walk in from the big hut following the boulders on the map. with a little scrubling youll find everything.
now, the bitter notes: accomodation can be a pain in the ass in august. DO NOT FREE CAMP. if you want to risk, do not use a tent, just throw your sleeping bag, the violations are very pricey. DO NOT START FIRES.
theres a campsite in canazei, probably others in ortisei or selva di val gardena.
be sure to be on the go early in the morning or in early afternoon, or youll take hours on the 15 km drive.
if you come from canazei, follow towards "PASSO SELLA", pass the pass and youll see the boulder area just as you go downhill. drive past the pass a couple of kms and youll see the big hut and the parking.
if you come from ortisei or selva di valgardena, youll find the boulders just before the pass.
its really worth.

Nibile

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#5 Re: Dolomiti bouldering
July 24, 2007, 01:11:53 am
some other info here
http://mountainjournal.alpkit.com/2006/citta-dei-sassi/

oh,
topos here
http://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/dolomiti/cittasassi/01.html

and here (different grades)
http://www.alpboulder.com/sella.htm

you can check the forecast on
http://www.ilmeteo.it
cross/searching for both canazei and ortisei (the two different sides of the mountains so you get quite a decent accuracy).

Nibile

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#6 Re: Dolomiti bouldering
July 24, 2007, 01:19:55 am
more.
the boulders i liked the most are (roughly) numbers 19 to 30 in the B sector (alpboulder guide), for warming up and pulling down.
then more or less everything in the D sector esp. arachidi, guerrilla and all the steep stuff.
the harder lines in E sector esp. mecca, redline, inline, the other stuff close to mecca, powerslave, slave to the rythm.

Nibile

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#7 Re: Dolomiti bouldering
July 24, 2007, 01:40:51 am
and...
if you decide to have a tent, i have slept many times on the small concrete platform that you find on your right driving DOWN from the sella pass, just mid way between the pass and the boulders. i have never had any problem there, but its windy, and you have to pack everything away in the morning.
if anyone is going, i would like to go back.

RASTATA

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#8 Re: Dolomiti bouldering
July 24, 2007, 08:11:15 am
 :great:
Excellent. Cheers for all the informations. If the weather will be fine, I probably going for the weekend.

 

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