UKBouldering.com

Blood Sport - 8B (Read 13513 times)

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 11:26:51 am
New Northumberland problem from Andy Earl. Looks good...

http://earl-andrewearl.blogspot.com/


sasscotty

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 156
  • Karma: +9/-1
#1 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 11:34:30 am
Looks an aweome problem! good effort! :thumbsup:

what rock type is it looks nice?

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13485
  • Karma: +683/-68
  • Whut
#2 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 11:35:29 am
Does indeed look rather good!

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2937
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
#3 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 11:43:28 am
what rock type is it looks nice?

The blog doesn't give a precise location but indicates that it is near Newcastle.  The rock looks like that at Shaftoe (where he says he has some projects) which would make it Northumbrian sandstone.  Although the stuff at Shaftoe is almost grit-esque - quite grippy and abrasive with quartzy pebbles but more prone to sandiness than "true grit".

richdraws

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 442
  • Karma: +31/-1
#4 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 11:46:57 am
Yeah, it is Shaftoe. Its on the turtle boulder (Soft centre etc). I was just there last night unfortunately a little late to see Mr Earl on this nails looking problem.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29330
  • Karma: +635/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#5 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 11:52:57 am
God Bless the Queen and Bloodsport for all.

Looks Ace.

dave

  • Guest
#6 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 11:56:03 am
that boulder is one of the best looking bits of rock (i did think it was grit) i've even seen. looks like this starts on the bottom rigth and finishes possibly up the 6a problem? there aught to also be a straight-up problem/project too from the same start if i remember right.

Andy Harris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 383
  • Karma: +34/-0
#7 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 12:47:23 pm
Remember this project from about 1995 when Shaftoe had it's first vogue (ie. the 1st time non locals climbed there). Infact the reason I remember is because Gav Ellis was racing us there from Belford in his new Lancia Delta HF turbo and promptly rolled it down a hill (at least 5 or 6 times) with him and Nick Sellars in it.

Ohh, I'm getting all nostalgic. This was the same trip I foolishly tried to wrestle Jason myers and put my back out rather badly. Luckily I'd already done Vienna by that time.Remarkably they emerged with cuts and bruises and a very battered Geordie ego. Sean Myles did a jump variation stand up or something like that on that big slopey pocket. Quite striking and a great effort by Andy.

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#8 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 01:26:39 pm
Unfortunately, the NHS admins have blocked access to his blog due to 'unsuitable content'. Unbelievable.

These wintery conditions will no doubt foster more hard sends on grit and grit-esque rock types.

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
#9 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 01:45:00 pm
There's at least one other mega project on that buttress. Check the line of undercut/sidepulls in the main roof, then reaching left for the slopey lip. Good landing for this one too. Where's Johnathan when you need him.

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Is an idiot
  • Posts: 1454
  • Karma: +84/-6
#10 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 02:43:17 pm
This line is even more impressive in the flesh awesome effort. :thumbsup:

Greg C

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1338
  • Karma: +93/-3
#11 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 02:48:24 pm
Effort Mr. Earl.

Quote
Where's Johnathan when you need him.
Hey, keep off that bandwagon! There's enough of us on here already!  ;)

Quote
These wintery conditions will no doubt foster more hard sends on grit and grit-esque rock types.

And the (dry) limestone...

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#12 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 03:02:49 pm
Quote
And the (dry) limestone...

Got something up your sleeve Mr Chapman!?

sjw

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 374
  • Karma: +22/-2
#13 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 03:16:35 pm
lovely stuff, just seen him at sunderland and those photos don't show how gypsy he's looking lately. gypsy power. the conditions were MINT at shaftoe last night like, felt better than the winter! good effort mr. earl.

philo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1090
  • Karma: +22/-9
#14 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 27, 2007, 07:33:13 pm
he was looking strong last time i seen him
good effort and this line is beautiful.

dave k

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 375
  • Karma: +7/-1
#15 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 28, 2007, 08:43:28 am
Just reading an article earlier this week from 2000 in Climber about Shaftoe. It talks about 2 or 4 projects there on the same butress. I was wondering if any had been done. I guess atleast one has.

Wow

yoda

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 53
  • Karma: +2/-0
#16 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 28, 2007, 05:51:07 pm
I know only one project that has now been climbed, its chalked up quite a bit now and is not in the current guide, approx 6c






For those of you who are unfamiliar with Shaftoe this is a great bloc hosting some nice problems.

Classic for the grade Soft Centre 6a




This problem traversing the break has supposedly had little in the way of repeats, from what Ive heard anyway 6B/6C



« Last Edit: June 28, 2007, 05:58:38 pm by yoda »

philo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1090
  • Karma: +22/-9
#17 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 28, 2007, 06:58:28 pm
the pocket is good tho.  scary landing if you pop, nice shelf to hit off!



http://s7.photobucket.com/albums/y259/philoo/?action=view&current=Photo-0101.jpg

dontfollowme

Offline
  • ****
  • Trusted Users
  • junky
  • Posts: 955
  • Karma: +13/-0
#18 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 28, 2007, 10:04:16 pm

richdraws

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 442
  • Karma: +31/-1
#19 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 29, 2007, 12:21:42 am
I fully recommend the double dyno version of soft centre.  :bounce:

c.j.d.

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Great.
  • Posts: 704
  • Karma: +46/-5
#20 Re: Blood Sport - 8B
June 29, 2007, 09:30:18 am
Fucking awesome - good effort.  I checked this out when the old article (OTE?) came out.  Glad to see it gone down, I can feel a trip coming on.  Definatley modern classic status.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal