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Last Orders Pill box wall (Read 2998 times)

superfurrymonkey

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Last Orders Pill box wall
July 16, 2007, 02:03:00 pm
Here I am right hand fat pinch left hand poor pinch out right and i`m thinking what the hell do I do now? :please:

Pantontino

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#1 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 16, 2007, 02:20:38 pm
I'm guessing that you mean: 'poor pinch out left' ?

Anyway, move your left up again to a sidepull dink, build your feet up and lurch with your left for a flat edge in the top break. This moves feels pretty on-off, especially the first time you do it (make sure the edge of the pill box is padded). Once you've got the edge, match your right at the same height (pocket in the break on the right), then pull round the bulge to good holds, and finally, dismount onto the pill box roof.



You can see the left hand holds chalked up in this image. they are both pretty rubbish, but just enough to use in opposition with the fat pinch.

The sitter trav link from Les Bos is awesome, make sure you try that too.

superfurrymonkey

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#2 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 16, 2007, 04:04:51 pm
Yes I did mean left, I was thinking there might be another hold on the way to the break but could not find it plus was slightly put off by the pill box, nice moves up to the fat pinch though, can`t wait to get back on it now :)

richieb

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#3 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 16, 2007, 07:29:05 pm
Tried this last week and somehow stumbled on exactly that sequence despite Jon dishing out the beta. Nice problem. Couldnt do it though due to it being quite hard and the sticky damp being more damp than sticky.
Left hand at the sidepull dink in this pic.


Doylo

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#4 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 16, 2007, 07:58:20 pm
that last tricky move is tricky! Its a long way. Hurrah for Pil Box. Think i'll go wednesday eve.
« Last Edit: July 16, 2007, 08:09:17 pm by Doylo »

a dense loner

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#5 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 17, 2007, 09:57:56 am
you can't have refined the sequence any more? ;)

SA Chris

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#6 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 17, 2007, 10:28:36 am
Simon says........

Put your hand on the sidepull dink

Simon says.......

Now bear down

Pantontino

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#7 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 17, 2007, 10:55:50 am
Simple Simon says: Doylo - your destiny is to finish the Drink Driving trav with Last Orders: the only true finish. Oh yeah!  :bounce:

superfurrymonkey

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#8 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 17, 2007, 01:48:07 pm
 
Simple Simon says: Doylo - your destiny is to finish the Drink Driving trav with Last Orders: the only true finish. Oh yeah!  :bounce:
Would that be from the base of the black streak into Last orders? 8)

Pantontino

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#9 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 17, 2007, 03:50:23 pm
No, but 'Malteser into Last Orders' is an obvious unclimbed link.

For reference purposes:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=220

Trust me, Doylo's project is far more ambitious than that.  :jaw:


Doylo

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#10 Re: Last Orders Pill box wall
July 17, 2007, 08:57:16 pm
will all lovers of the 'box' please come and cheer me on tomorrow. I would finish up last orders cept i don't seem to be able to do it!

 

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