[Pantontino]

North Wales Bouldering meet's genial host strikes again at Gallt yr Ogof in Ogwen Valley:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=276

[a dense loner]

chris has this as being called "the black parade" on his 8a.amusement scorecard. are you mistaken simon or has chris took to retro-naming once more after the success of superfuzzbigmuff?
thought you just launched out from the L shaped hold for the dyno, damn!
i know it says it, but does the parade thing finish by doing the dyno or just crossing it?
the climbing on this new prob looks awesome

[Pantontino]

Chris told me he wanted to call the problem The Black Parade (My Chemical Romance song), but I pointed out that young master Pearson had already snaffled this moniker for his sitter to Dan Kennard's MCR 8a thang at Portland. So, after a moment or two of thought he said, "Bollocks", then...."call it 'This Parade'. Aye that'll do."

As for the specifics of the Diamond Eyes dyno  - I was only quoting what he told me over the phone, I haven't tried it myself. I understood him to be saying that the new line finishes up DE. No doubt CJD will be along shortly to confirm/deny this.

[c.j.d.]

Now then Dense - just got off a two day shift so here goes.  Diamond Eyes - L shaped hold in your left, Small chest height crimp witjh your right.  Paste feet on and slap.  There is a good bit to catch in a v shaped groove at top of boulder.  This Parade starts up re-generation (7b+) taking in the bulk of this, before traversing left through sway on via  some awesome cross over 'bumps' on dinks (hard crux), then finish up DE (7c).  Very tasty.  Not much skin left though!

[a dense loner]

genius, nice one. see you int pub later for further cross examinations

[Pantontino]

Pics are now up on the NWB.com site:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=276

[clm]

is he alloweed to be stripped of the first ascent because he tried to name it after a gash band/track.

[cofe]

Pics are now up on the NWB.com site:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=276

that's a bit of an half arsed slap in that last one

[Pantontino]

is he alloweed to be stripped of the first ascent because he tried to name it after a gash band/track.

I suspect it'll probably end up getting re-named this weekend in a moment of drink-fuelled inspiration. That's what normally happens.

[Pantontino]

Pics are now up on the NWB.com site:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=276

that's a bit of an half arsed slap in that last one

I guess he didn't have time to run around from behind the tripod and get in position.

[cofe]

Pics are now up on the NWB.com site:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=276

that's a bit of an half arsed slap in that last one

I guess he didn't have time to run around from behind the tripod and get in position.

punter

[Jim]

is he alloweed to be stripped of the first ascent because he tried to name it after a gash band/track.

only if he went salsa dancing on saturday night, oh no wait, that was you <nelson off the simpsons> ha ha </nelson> 

[clm]

AAAAAAARRRRGHHHHH the weight of the massive thumb.  It hurts me it hurts...

(at least i didnt bottle it)

[c.j.d.]

Hairball.