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Baldstones info (Read 2310 times)

dave k

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Baldstones info
April 27, 2007, 03:39:50 pm
Far end -7a+ large pocket and small pebble (something wall) - which pebble? Right of the pocket in the vague crack or left?

Did Clever Skin (just) with nasty pebble- anyone done it without? Anyone done it on LHS? 

Andy B

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#1 Re: Baldstones info
April 27, 2007, 04:04:38 pm
Fielders wall.
The pebble is way over to the left of the pocket on top of a bump/slabby area. About level with the pocket.

AndiT

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#2 Re: Baldstones info
April 28, 2007, 08:50:31 pm
Left hand and left foot in pocket, right hand (thumb) on pebble over to the right to press down on until all weight is on the left foot.

I've never been able to do this problem, I think I'm too long :boohoo: but have seen many (well, at least 2) doing it this way.

Hope that helps.

dave

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#3 Re: Baldstones info
April 29, 2007, 05:23:55 pm
are you giving left and rights facing outwards andi?

AndiT

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#4 Re: Baldstones info
April 29, 2007, 08:47:42 pm
No, but I can do if that would make more sense to you.

dave

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#5 Re: Baldstones info
April 29, 2007, 09:29:35 pm
its just that your beta is exactly oposite (re. left and right) to the beta i've been shown, the JB does it, the way me and banks tried it!

AndiT

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#6 Re: Baldstones info
April 30, 2007, 07:06:08 am
JB climbs Goliaths Groove facing outwards and says it's easier, never try and climb like him!

My minds eye could be muddling things (left and right), it wouldn't be the first time. Definitely involves a thumb on the pebble and a palm down type affair however. But then again, I've not done it and doubt ever will a bit like inertia reel, so my suggestions may be poo.

Johnny Brown

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#7 Re: Baldstones info
April 30, 2007, 08:36:36 am
The two forum giants at it again! I think you should have a fight with nettle switches atop the baldstone.

As Dave sez, I have right limbs in't pockut. I've got a photo of The Judge on the move I'll post up when I get chance.

 

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