UKBouldering.com

Font suggestions (Read 3366 times)

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
Font suggestions
March 02, 2007, 02:26:31 pm
Right, I've been to Font a fair few times over the past few years and have a pretty good knowledge of most areas and indeed, know plenty of problems that I want to do out there.  Now I'd like some help refining my hypothetical/theoretical ticklist and would like some suggestions in my chosen specialist area...  namely, mantels and similar slopey shit that ideally involve getting a palm down and pressing it out.

So, ideas on an electronic postcard please, give me tricksome mantels and stuff like that, ideally harder than 7a for starters.  It may be that I've already done what you suggest, but I don't care, just let me hear your ideas.  I'm always happy hearing about mantels and palm downs.

Thanks in advance.   

jfw

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 545
  • Karma: +28/-0
  • banananananana
#1 Re: Font suggestions
March 02, 2007, 02:58:03 pm
piano appremont (dunno grade - my mate pob pissed this in the warm but he's got super freaky inverted mantelling elbows - should have seen him on three blind mice)

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
#2 Re: Font suggestions
March 02, 2007, 04:20:37 pm
Calins de Kim (7a) at rocher Canon.

There's a 7a at Sabots called Limes a Ongles thats in the guide as a mantel but we did it more as a dynamic rockover and press, but it's very good fun.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9953
  • Karma: +562/-9
#3 Re: Font suggestions
March 02, 2007, 04:32:31 pm
 Try Sitting Bull at Apremonte with my direct mantle finish. Pure lip mantle and much more satisfying IMO than the original finish which uses a foothold extremely close to a side boulder.

 This beast at Isatis is a must for mantle fans. I could get half way over but then got stuck, but it was a bit wet.
L'Insoutenable Légèreté de l'Être debout   7c

http://bleau.info/isatis/942-15294.html

Monolith

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Straight outta Cronton.
  • Posts: 3955
  • Karma: +218/-6
#4 Re: Font suggestions
March 02, 2007, 05:00:12 pm
Tread easy with Ben here gents, I dare say the Kleenex are out by now  :wank: (possibly first non-malevolent use of this emoticon?)

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5812
  • Karma: +235/-5
#5 Re: Font suggestions
March 03, 2007, 01:54:23 pm
JB hope you weren't trying the unbearable... late last october - we walked past and the mantle was literally covered in chalk - and I do mean covered.

re sitting bull, perhaps tis just my poor sequence but I've never even noticed the offending foothold. RH out r to sloper LF heel on initial lip h/hold, rock round - straightforward. Sure the mantle is fun though.

Ben you need to try this

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#6 Re: Font suggestions
March 03, 2007, 07:30:48 pm
that looks quality duma

why is font far and away the best bouldering in the world? damn those french

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#7 Re: Font suggestions
March 03, 2007, 07:51:42 pm
Nice one so far.  Keep 'em coming if you can.

Ben you need to try this

Don't worry, I'm onto Bleau.info,  Only problem is that it doesn't have a mantel directory.  Yet.  Or maybe it does, but I can't remember it.

Try Sitting Bull at Apremonte with my direct mantle finish. Pure lip mantle and much more satisfying IMO than the original finish which uses a foothold extremely close to a side boulder.

 This beast at Isatis is a must for mantle fans. I could get half way over but then got stuck, but it was a bit wet.
L'Insoutenable Légèreté de l'Être debout   7c

I've done the mantel finish of Sitting Bull and am really hoping to complete it from sitting next trip.  L'Insoutenable Légèreté de l'Être is something that I want to try, although I won't be trying from sitting for obvious reasons.  I guessed trying the mantel at 7c would be a cool project.

The Piana is a good tip, as is Calins du Kim.  Give me a medal, I flashed them both. :wank:

whispering nic

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 104
  • Karma: +6/-1
#8 Re: Font suggestions
March 04, 2007, 01:12:46 am
Mini Karma

Karma

Graviton (see them squeal)

Aerodynamite

come back when you've sent these!


nash1

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 236
  • Karma: +6/-0
#9 Re: Font suggestions
March 04, 2007, 07:03:55 am
This baby's on my list: http://bleau.info/isatis/1731.html
I think it fits into your criteria...

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#10 Re: Font suggestions
March 04, 2007, 11:09:59 am
This baby's on my list: http://bleau.info/isatis/1731.html
I think it fits into your criteria...

Oh yeah baby.  I think I may have done it, but am not sure.  It's been marked in my guide now anyway.  Thanks.

Mini Karma
Karma
Graviton (see them squeal)
Aerodynamite

Haha, I don't think I'll ever get Karma, but I'd like to try Aerodynamite when there's not like 20 people jostling for a go on it and smearing it with two foot tick marks.  Graviton is a right good problem but I wouldn't really say the hard bit of Little Karma is the mantel.  For me it's the first move from sitting.  Thanks though.

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
#11 Re: Font suggestions
March 04, 2007, 07:43:41 pm
Well known areas, I'd suggest le cle at cuvier and gravitation at sabots (there's also a 7 ish mantle horror aout 10 yards away from the red three at sabots (it's under 1m high so lots of potential for banter).

Away from the crowds but well known hyperplomb at apremont, little karma sit start.

esoterica, go find them yourself

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9953
  • Karma: +562/-9
#12 Re: Font suggestions
March 05, 2007, 09:56:27 am
JB hope you weren't trying the unbearable... late last october - we walked past and the mantle was literally covered in chalk - and I do mean covered.

Didn't go to font last year

Andy B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1839
  • Karma: +97/-3
  • fishie in a dishie
#13 Re: Font suggestions
March 05, 2007, 11:32:47 am
I don't know what it is but there is a boulder that I always look at on the track just before the duroxamine sector at cuvier est. It has a beautiful rounded arete on it with nice blobs that it looks like you would mantel to climb it. I always think it looks good but have never got round to trying it.

La Rampe at Gros Sablons is a nice mantel, but it's a gift at 7a, and it would be a long walk for a formality for you if you have already flashed the piano and Calins de Kim.

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#14 Re: Font suggestions
March 05, 2007, 12:07:08 pm
I don't know what it is but there is a boulder that I always look at on the track just before the duroxamine sector at cuvier est. It has a beautiful rounded arete on it with nice blobs that it looks like you would mantel to climb it. I always think it looks good but have never got round to trying it.

I think I know the one you mean.  It is a beautiful little problem that begs to be climbed and it does indeed climb like a mantel, with the crux being getting a foot up high whilst palming down with one hand if I remember rightly.  Next time you're there, go and do it. 

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5812
  • Karma: +235/-5
#15 Re: Font suggestions
March 05, 2007, 05:30:48 pm
La Rampe is very much a gift, but worth the walk due to having two of the best blacks in the forest right next door. Gros Sablons is ace, tho spread out.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal