Grades, a confession (Read 6859 times)

Sloper · April 30, 2009, 07:09:11 pm

Having looked at the Stanage guide I have to confess that I can't grade flour. My grading system is reportedly consistent but 2 whole grades out of step with the modern understanding of how things are.

I still however contend that Strawberries is no more than 5 or even 5+ if you're being ultra generous 6b it is not.

nik at work · April 30, 2009, 07:39:13 pm

I may be mad but couldn't you just add a couple of grades onto your gradings and bish bosh it's all nicely lined up?
Have I missed a fundamental element of the problem or did this just not occur to you?

robertostallioni · April 30, 2009, 09:52:52 pm

Sloper, I guess you've not got Barre Fixe down at 7b+..........

GCW · April 30, 2009, 09:57:15 pm

Quote from: robertostallioni on April 30, 2009, 09:52:52 pm

Sloper, I guess you've not got Barre Fixe down at 7b+..........

Only one person around here does

Oli · April 30, 2009, 10:48:10 pm

Quote from: GCW on April 30, 2009, 09:57:15 pm

Quote from: robertostallioni on April 30, 2009, 09:52:52 pm
Sloper, I guess you've not got Barre Fixe down at 7b+..........

Only one person around here does

At least it's shut him up for a while about some unrepeated vertical bit of rock in some quarry somewhere...

nik at work · April 30, 2009, 11:00:01 pm

I've gone for 7B instead, happy?
I can only go by what's in the guide, sheesh you people.

Anyway back to Rivelin Quarries....

grumpycrumpy · May 01, 2009, 09:51:16 am

5/5+ for Strawberries .... 5+ for the wall at the end of Long Wall Traverse ( given 6b in Grimer's little book of Stanage ) .... Exactly what grade do YOU think you're climbing at Sloper .... Because you're obviously a hell of a lot better than you think you are

....

Jaspersharpe · May 01, 2009, 10:07:22 am

nik is spot on.

I don't see a problem here Sloper. Just accept that the grades are correct and that you've been wrongly assuming that absolutely everything is overgraded by two grades.

And that's it! As grumpy says, you obviously climb two grades harder than you thought you did so that's a nice position to be in.

GCW · May 01, 2009, 10:08:03 am

Sloper flashed the Ace, but he didn't mention it 'cos flashing 7b+ is nothing special (eh, Nik?).

Fiend · May 01, 2009, 10:13:29 am

Sloper talks utter crap about grades??

Maybe this should be a news item

(For the 3 people alive who don't know it already, I mean)

Resonate · May 01, 2009, 10:50:56 am

strawberries is indeed 5+ though

a dense loner · May 01, 2009, 02:27:26 pm

yes strawberries is only 5+. you lot make me laugh really hard

yorkshireman · May 03, 2009, 11:32:41 pm

i always laugh when people say the trackside arete is 7a.if it were in font it wouldnt be more than 6a

Sloper · May 04, 2009, 07:44:25 am

True, but are we talking about Font Font grades ot British Font grades?

butters · May 04, 2009, 07:59:50 am

Sloper - this thread should be on UKC where it would have got a lot more ~~ill-informed~~ well thought out replies than you are going to get here! Anyway just keep grading the way that you do - you have fought long and hard to get the reputation that you have as a sandbagging bastard and I just add two numbers onto whatever you tell me and it seems to work.

bluebrad

Fiend · May 04, 2009, 02:11:52 pm

Quote from: yorkshireman on May 03, 2009, 11:32:41 pm

i always laugh when people say the trackside arete is 7a.if it were in font it wouldnt be more than 6a

Wot like Calins Du Kim or Bizzare Bizzare or Egoiste or any other Font errr 6a arete in font that's actually equally piss.

lagerstarfish · May 05, 2009, 02:49:31 pm

Quote from: Sloper on May 04, 2009, 07:44:25 am

True, but are we talking about Font Font grades ot British Font grades?

Scunthorpe Font grades are where its at

tomtom · May 05, 2009, 05:33:15 pm

Quote from: lagerstarfish on May 05, 2009, 02:49:31 pm

Quote from: Sloper on May 04, 2009, 07:44:25 am
True, but are we talking about Font Font grades ot British Font grades?

Scunthorpe Font grades are where its at

Word.

Though even in S'thorpe they're being downgraded..
the urban uber classic traverse Bread Pit has been downgraded from Scunt 8a+ to 7c with the discovery of a heel hook by the exterior light near the front door...

Note: Bread pit gag shamelessly copied from another thread - but I couldnt re-find it..

lagerstarfish · May 05, 2009, 09:33:33 pm

So, I've tried to understand the various incarnations of Font bouldering grades and have decided to view them like a time zone map

Font = + 0.00

Punt = + 1.30 (up to 5+, after that we have parity)

Scunt = + 12.0

Lint = + 0.5 until 7b+, then shuffle grades apply

Cave (or "Can't"/"Cunt" depending on attitude) = + 1

Bint = -1.25 (if a lady climbs it then it must be over graded)

Slump (due to Tory style economic management) = - 2.0

Tug (Yank Font) = - 3.0 rounded off to the nearest consonant > or < than V

I'm sure there are more...

Sloper · May 05, 2009, 09:46:17 pm

OK so when I do my projects do I give them font 5, 6a, 6b and 7a (which is what I think they'll be) if that feels right or do I inflate the grades on the basis of sloper font +2 (below 7a) = regular font?

PS I plan to call one prob 'mick ryan the cvnt'.

lagerstarfish · May 05, 2009, 09:58:29 pm

Quote from: Sloper on May 05, 2009, 09:46:17 pm

inflate the grades on the basis of sloper font +2 (below 7a) = regular font

that, or just state "Slump grade"

grumpycrumpy · May 05, 2009, 11:09:15 pm

Shrug = ( I'm not sure of the grade but it feels like about 5+ to me ) +2

GCW · May 05, 2009, 11:28:29 pm

I-did-that-back-in't-day-when-I-was-shit-so-it-must-be-piss Grade = Font-3