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Last Great Problems Burbage North. (Read 4084 times)

Houdini

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Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 23, 2006, 10:37:45 pm
Al Williams pointed out one of Burbages' unclimbed problems to me a couple of weeks back.  It's a wall into a tiny roof into a short wide angled arete.  It's not so tall, not highball, and has a great landing.  It's pretty much at the top of the crag no more than say, 300m past Bananafinger.  I looked at it and thought, there's holds all over it (good side pulls) and then thought, Why is this unclimbed?

Anybody know what this is and why it remains unclimbed?  It looks so on.

Pantontino

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#1 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 23, 2006, 10:53:01 pm
Looked pretty nails to me; stunning line nonetheless.

At more a realistic level, why hasn't anybody climbed the obvious line straight up through Velvet Crab? Good landing, looks fairly do-able. You Peak boys sleeping on the job again. ::)

dave

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#2 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 23, 2006, 11:02:43 pm
I can't place the line you're on about. will maybe try and have a look this week.

I've eyed the direct into velvet ages ago. I'm unlikey to try it though as i've not done velvet and am unlikey to go and try it anytime soon unless I gain a liking for steep awkward scrittle-shuffling.

Pantontino

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#3 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 23, 2006, 11:12:04 pm
Dave, it's mentioned on page 18 of the BMC guide: " The ribbed bulge further right is a beautiful unclimbed feature, crossing the obvious roof."


dave

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#4 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 24, 2006, 07:43:17 am
oh that thing, the thing up behind the sphinx. I thought there were no holds on this.

Bonjoy

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#5 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 24, 2006, 08:43:58 am
 I know the one. Iain Farrar tried it for a while and didn't succees so I never bothered, as he is heaps better on crap holds on vertical ground.
 Do you mean the pockets leading left into the top of VC. Looks desperate to me. Have failled to pull on.
 To be truthful i've got more projects than time to try, elsewhere
 

a dense loner

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#6 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 24, 2006, 09:35:21 am
you big tease

Bonjoy

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#7 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 24, 2006, 09:46:48 am
 It's more that I have fuck all time, than shed loads of projects sadly  :boohoo:

Doylo

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#8 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 24, 2006, 01:59:01 pm
I've got plenty of time, unfortunately i'm not strong enough to do my projects  :boohoo:

Nibile

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#9 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 24, 2006, 02:08:12 pm
so now, whos got enough time and enough power?
lucky bastard.

chris

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#10 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 24, 2006, 02:18:48 pm
i saw big malc trying this little roof/wall thing behind the sphinx. He said it was doable but very, very hard.

nik at work

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#11 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 24, 2006, 07:22:46 pm
Tried it
Couldn't do it
Went home
Quite tricky I'd say


(Talking about the original line not the VC do-dah)

Jim

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#12 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 25, 2006, 02:13:41 pm
has anyone got any pictures?
I know of a few projects at burbage north  :whistle:

unclesomebody

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#13 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 25, 2006, 02:27:10 pm
has anyone got any pictures?
I know of a few projects at burbage north  :whistle:

That's because everyone feels safe telling you their projects....   :shrug:

this one is pretty obvious. Looks alright until you start trying to actually climb it.

Sloper

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#14 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 25, 2006, 05:29:08 pm
There's actually a good mini circuit around the roof & rib project.

As for other projects at burbage north, there's plenty you just have to drag yourself away from the terrace and remergence wall.

Idol eyes

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#15 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 29, 2006, 12:12:43 pm
I have top roped this line, It involves one of the most bewildering moves ive done, no clues here though but it is awkward, the pocket is not a pocket, more like four splayed pebbles, then a swinging dyno for the break. the set up really is cool, you have to press your Knee up against your undercutting hand, like a press duo jam lock type thing...
I love it i does...

Johnny Brown

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#16 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
October 29, 2006, 09:11:08 pm
I think you are thinking of the thing further along that is now a welford problem?

Idol eyes

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#17 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
November 01, 2006, 06:36:28 pm
Im thinking the highball roof arete just behind living in oxford

Idol eyes

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#18 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
November 01, 2006, 06:42:25 pm
A Welford prob, shit i am out of touch...

Ru

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#19 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
November 02, 2006, 08:06:27 am
It's called "Puck". English 6c to you. ;)

Idol eyes

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#20 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
November 02, 2006, 07:41:32 pm
Nice One Ru...

Aussiegav

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#21 Re: Last Great Problems Burbage North.
November 02, 2006, 07:55:07 pm
behind and slightly to the right of the 'terrace area' is a groove above a little 'rooflet'. looks very very difficult. great landing and rock. anyone know where i mean? anybody else tried it??

 

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