[fatneck]

Found pulling on and hitting the sloper reasonable, but what do you do next? Match the sloper? Use the slopey ledge right of the sloper?
Hit me...

[Pantontino]

I recall matching either on the same part of the sloper or just next to it. You then make a few hand shuffles leftwards and are left with a choice of finishes. Shorter climbers will probably favour the direct mantel, but taller climbers will yard up left before rocking back right.

Great problem, and actually okay once you get all the subtleties sorted out. In good nick it feels V6/7a to me.

[Jim]

I thought pulling on was the crux? its was 4 million degrees when we were last there (it was really)
match the sloper and shuffle left a bit to some good holds and rock on. the direct mantle looks good but very hard

[Pantontino]

I was with Jonesy when he did the first ascent and he mantelled out directly. I couldn't touch it that day for some reason and got it into my head that it was really hard.

[BenF]

I agree with the sequences suggested and the quality of this problem.  I love it, as you already know Fatneck.  One thing I would like to add (in the tradition of UKB problem rule pointing out) is that using the little pocket out left of the arete is not cricket.  This problem is all about slopers, but then you'll know that.

[Richie Crouch]

I'd like to think it was a combination of me having an off day and the hot weather but I found it fairly desperate! I'm probably using a botched starting sequence - is that chalked right hand pinch 'in' under the roof? Getting stronger will probably help too 

How far left is it deemed ok to shuffle before rocking/mantling up over the top?

[Johnny Brown]

haven't got the guide - remind me where this is?

[Pantontino]

It's on the back end of the large block left of the popular Closer block.

Hock did a 'very tasty' (as Jonesy might have put it) right hand finish to this last winter:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=152

[Jim]

JB, Its that thing at the back, near the high crack with the akward start up to a big slopey nose we all did when me & worm & obi-wan were down last. we had a breif dabble at the right hand finish but due to the fact it was 3 million degree's we didn't have many tries. I then went on to beat hounds of hell into submission after a lot of goes

[Johnny Brown]

Ah yeah - I agree pulling on was the crux. Right-hand finish would need a colder day than when we were there