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California Bouldering Ticklist (Read 2937 times)

Stubbs

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California Bouldering Ticklist
September 07, 2006, 10:07:24 am
So next weekend I'm off to Yosemite for a month  ;D

While I'm over there i want to check out some of the other bouldering venues that are fairly close, and tick some classics.  I know there are a few bishop topics on here, but i was wondering if there were any other crags/problems close by I should check out.

The Classic Ticks I want so far are:
Midnight Lightning
King Cobra
Soul Slinger
Saigon
Thriller (if i feel like a beast)

any suggestions up to 7b+/V9 please!

SA Chris

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#1 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 07, 2006, 10:48:49 am
High Plains Drifter looks superb, as does the harder version with a similar name. Bit rich for my blood though.

Johnny Brown

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#2 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 07, 2006, 11:46:21 am
Midnight lightning is a little disappointing due to the polish on the handholds. The Force is next to thriller and more achievable in wack conditions, also dead good. Search out Bruce Lee too. Assuming no one would visit yosemite just to boulder, nice day routes include east buttress of El cap, snake dyke on half dome, the rostrum, astroman if you're going well, chouinard-herbert on the sentinel.

nathan wind

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#3 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 07, 2006, 12:19:34 pm
I'm jealous...

some more ticks for you..

camp four:

cocaine corner v5
elf v3
tendons give v4
bachar cracker v4
ament arete v5
bruce lee v8

supposed to be some good stuff at the ahwahnee boulders and curry village, though it was all wet when I was there, root cannel (v7) at curry village is sposed to be good..

as for bishop, it could be really really hot, but its a fairly straightforward drive over if the pass is open and some of the easier stuff could be doable.. having said I was there in march and it was getting too hot... stuff like soulslinger needs cool temps... I did it when it was snowing and it still felt tenuous..

despite all that, my recommendations would be...

buttermilks:

the ironman trav v4
buttermilk stem (do the sit start, its cool) v2 /4
shelter from the storm v5
cave problem v5
high plains drifter v7
soulslinger v8/9
stained glass (may aswell try it..) v10

checkerboard v8
beekeepers apprentice v5
seven spanish angels v6

prolly gonna be way too hot to climb in the table lands... but

the happys:

the hulk v6
disco diva v8
morning dove white v7
another brit in bishop v8
toxic avenger v9
the clapper v5
the gleaner v5
action figure v5
ketron classic v4

the sads, (check out the ice caves, kinda shady with positive holds)

mothership connection v4
chizam v5 / v7
all about love (soft v8)
strength in numbers v5
pow pow  v7

apparently theres also loads of stuff in the deadman summit / june lake area near mamoth , could be a good time to go - it was under snow when I was there.. theres also castle rock and tahoe both of which should be in pretty good nick..
« Last Edit: September 07, 2006, 12:24:57 pm by nathan wind »

tesla

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#4 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 07, 2006, 01:05:33 pm
"Fairly close" in US terms? I visited Castle Rock (nr. Santa Cruz / San Jose) a few weeks ago which I enjoyed, the rock is pretty much identical to Font - more details from dr. topo: http://www.drtopo.com/califo/castlerock.html




nathan wind

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#5 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 07, 2006, 01:43:33 pm
"Fairly close" in US terms? I visited Castle Rock (nr. Santa Cruz / San Jose) a few weeks ago which I enjoyed, the rock is pretty much identical to Font - more details from dr. topo: http://www.drtopo.com/califo/castlerock.html

We drove there from yosemite in less than a day, I'd really recommend the place, really liked it, very similar to font and prolly enough to keep you going for a good of couple of days. late summer would seem to be the best time to go aswell as all the moss that seems to gather on the boulders over winter / spring should be gone, santa cruz is worth a visit too..

Stubbs

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#6 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 08, 2006, 09:48:29 am
Cheers Nathan, great list.

nathan wind

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#7 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 08, 2006, 02:00:21 pm
Cheers Nathan, great list.

no worries, thought I'd include a link to some pics for ya, (though I'm sure you'll be psyched enough already..)
hope you have a great time..

http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=37290

Stubbs

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#8 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 08, 2006, 02:40:28 pm
Ah is that your gallery?

love this shot
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=44488

nathan wind

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#9 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 08, 2006, 11:08:37 pm
yeah man thats my gallery - well, stuff from a trip to the states earlier this year, was there for two months hitching about and had a top time,

Thanks for the compliment bout the photo .. I like that shot aswell -  I've got a few more shots of Raidun on that attempt, so the whole thing can be viewed in sequence from ground up, hope to sort out hosting them soon. for me that was the pick of the bunch tho, she was trying so hard, really gutsy climber and strong, put most of the guys trying the problem to shame! 
« Last Edit: September 08, 2006, 11:37:17 pm by nathan wind »

Doylo

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#10 Re: California Bouldering Ticklist
September 10, 2006, 11:02:40 pm
don't go to the sads

 

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