[Pantontino]

The crags are bone dry, its cold and the boys have been tearing down. Now is the time to be here.



Sam Cattell on his new 7b+ Pantymwyn problem.

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=310

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=309

[Doylo]

Nice shot! The mwyn, the mwyn, the mwyn!

[Pantontino]

Jesus!!! Just watched Doylo's film of Sam on Youtube (see link at bottom of news item). Talk about a footless extravaganza!!! Don't worry folks there are plenty of footholds to 'cheat' with as I found out today.

[steven82]

Where abouts is this place? I haven't got time to get the guide book yet, is there a topo floating about at all?

[BenF]

Devils Gorge, in the Clwyds, not far from Mold.  Lovely spot to climb, but you'll eithe love or hate the actual climbing.  There's a topo in the Rockfax Clwyd Limestone guide but it is a bit out of date now.  Simon's list of problems on North Wales Bouldering is the list to work with.  Best to visit with a local I'd say.

[Pantontino]

I was going to produce an updated topo, but the batteries on my camera went when I was there last week before I'd had a chance to photograph the crag. I'll be going going back soon, but in the mean time (and assuming you don't want to buy the definitive Rockfax guide, which is a shame as it is only £16.95 - quite a bargain I'd say) here's the directions:

Find Pantymwyn (it lies just north of the A494 Ruthin - Mold road) and park sensibly a short distance along the side road running off from the apex of the sharp bend in the main road in the village. Walk along the side road, continue straight on along a tarmac track where this road turns left. Go over a cattle grid and down the hill, continuing straight on via a path at the sharp bend of the track, crossing over a stile before reaching the top of Devil's Gorge (Great looking F7b+ in here). Follow the path round to the right (ignore the bridge on the left) then cut back down steeply and back left to the entrance to the gorge. The gorge itself is currently banned (thus the fence and gate), but Danny's 7b+ just right of the gate is unaffected, as is the main bouldering section which lies round to the right. The main lines are fairly obvious, and the combination of Doylo's film and the news reports on NWB.com will explain most things that are relevant.

As for the quality and style: the climbing is generally very powerful, but not without technical interest. I'd say the problems are as good as any other British limestone problems. In fact that 7a on the right is a contender for the best of its grade (on limestone crags only, that is).

It stays dry in rain, but Doylo tells me that once the main pocket used by Panty's Down, Be Ruthless, Thug Mentality gets wet, it tends to stay wet for a long time.

[BenF]

the definitive Rockfax guide... ...only £16.95 - quite a bargain I'd say

Definitely worth buying if you climb routes in North Wales, there's some quality crags and routes in the guide. A nice alternative to the Orme sports/trad routes.

In fact that 7a on the right is a contender for the best of its grade (on limestone crags only, that is).

I'm so glad you added that caveat.

[Monolith]

Big up the gorge. Don't travel from afar though I'd say.

[steven82]

cheers guys, i am hopefully in the area on monday so mite try and check it out, I like parisellas so by the looks of things i will like that place to possibly i just need somewhere new to do some things

[Doylo]

Devils Gorge, in the Clwyds, not far from Mold.  Lovely spot to climb, but you'll eithe love or hate the actual climbing. 

Agree with that, if you haven't got strong arms you'll hate it. Its the second closest crag to my house and i could never be arsed to go cos it kicks my ass. However like they say its important to work your weaknesses. I have a good time now when get dragged there by cattells.

[Pantontino]

Devils Gorge, in the Clwyds, not far from Mold.  Lovely spot to climb, but you'll eithe love or hate the actual climbing. 

Agree with that, if you haven't got strong arms you'll hate it. Its the second closest crag to my house and i could never be arsed to go cos it kicks my ass. However like they say its important to work your weaknesses. I have a good time now when get dragged there by cattells.

I don't reckon you need Cattell big guns to enjoy this crag. A couple of the problems are simple and brutal (e.g. Gasoline and Spark’s stand up versions) but most other stuff seemed to have plenty of fancy footwork options for those of us lacking campus power. Basically, if you like Parisella's, I reckon you'll like Pantymwyn.