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Midget Gem - Utopia (Read 1247 times)

TractorIceIsOK

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Midget Gem - Utopia
April 27, 2006, 02:24:10 pm
After doing Midget Gem in the easiest way - by slapping up to the slopy groove from a decent pocket and sidepull/undercut, then pulling out right to a huge jug then rocking it out (Which I'm assuming is what the v5 was given for) I then went to the slopy groove, then crossed through to the small slopy ridge just behind the groove then topped it out the same way....

Is this a new method, or is this what the original method for the v5 was, if not is there a general concensus on the grade?

It felt a lot better going direct with the crossthrough, than using the huge jug...

Pantontino

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#1 Re: Midget Gem - Utopia
April 27, 2006, 05:54:26 pm
Either way counts. It was actually originally done by moving up to take a very thin diagonal crimp (left-hand), then going for the slopey thing on top with your right.

Rhys

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#2 Re: Midget Gem - Utopia
April 27, 2006, 07:50:47 pm
Have you tried the cheeky side-heelhook beta, lock and pop with the right? Quality move is this. Was discussing who climbed it first at the crag t'other day- is it Dawes', anyone?

Pantontino

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#3 Re: Midget Gem - Utopia
April 27, 2006, 08:11:21 pm
It was Leo.

Rhys

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#4 Re: Midget Gem - Utopia
April 27, 2006, 08:32:17 pm
Cheers, do you know anything about the pebble? Have been trying it recently but dont know anyone whose climbed it- seems a bit of a mystery problem?

BenF

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#5 Re: Midget Gem - Utopia
April 28, 2006, 08:14:53 am
Cheers, do you know anything about the pebble? Have been trying it recently but dont know anyone whose climbed it- seems a bit of a mystery problem?

It's a quality problem.  What do you want to know about it? 

 

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