[nik at work]

This should probably be in the places to visit forum but tra-la-laaa.

Just a couple of quick questions:
First of all the important one. I'm off to font in a few weeks and for some reason I really want to go and find La Gaulle at Bas Cuvier. (7a stand-up 7c sitting I believe). The sole basis for this is the photo in the pink guide looks pretty cool so am I going to be hugely disappointed, or is it worth hunting it out?

Secondly I've got a wedding to go to in autumn in Boston (US) of all places. So anybody got suggestions of where to find the cheapest flight piloted by the most overworked, sleep deprived, underpaid, drug-smuggling miscreants on the planet? And as I'm going all that way I might stay for a week or two. Is there any good bouldering near Boston, Matress-Ha-Chew-Setts? My knowledge of the US extends to the fact that it is the other side of Wales so guidance would be appreciated...

[Ru]

It looks ok, but you need long arms for the sitter - it's basically just hugging up two aretes that get closer together at the top - and I couldn't reach between the two. The stand up is a bit pointless really being just the last few moves of the sitter.

There's supposed to be some good bouldering in Massachusetts.

[SA Chris]

http://www.skyscanner.net/worldwide.asp?langid=en&from=UK&rtn=1&adults=1&

Apparently good, but not used it in anger.

As far as getting flights to the States, the cheapest I have managed to do it has been to leave it until the last minute, then be flexible on your departure and return dates. Due to booking flights in the past as soon as a visa arrives, I have amanged to get return flights to Denver for about £280 or so in the past. Takes some balls to do, but if you are prepare to brass it out, you can come up with a winner.

Also, it's pronounced Bwarston, and the drink cwarfee there.

[Blunk]

Brilliant bouldering north of  Boston at a place called Pawtuckaway in New Hampshire.

http://www.norope.com/gallery.php?path=PAWTUCKAWAY

http://www.newenglandbouldering.com/nh/pawttopos.html

http://www.norope.com/pawtuckaway.htm

Thses links should get you started. Tim Kemple wrote an excellent guide to the best New England bouldering, should be easy to find online. And there are other venues closer to/within Boston.

Good luck!

[grimer]

nik, totally off topic, but now you're there...

you did a route in Burbage Quarries called Little Monkey Hands. The other day I was listening to this brilliant story by Richard Pryor about a friend of his who became with massive feet so they went to a witch who had spiders and a monkey but the monkey started to get his paws allover the Pryor and he was going on about the little monkey hands all over him...

Any connection? Couldn't help but wonder.

Absolutely class story.

[nik at work]

Cheers for all the info everyone.

Grimer Little Monkey Hands is so named because my girlfriend is terrified of monkeys, she doesn't like their little evil hands...ahem.....I mean yeah I was telling Richard Pryor about this idea I kinda had for a amusing story about witches and monkeys whilst we shared a line of coke. I guess he must have used the whole routine and I was left with a crappy route name and a bunch of royalties, which aint so bad....

[nik at work]

Any other suggestion for class 7's problems dans la foret? I'd prefer technical sloper problems to powerfull nasty sharp crimp fests so my fingers can make it through the week. Ideally with a nice yellow style circuit nearby to keep the little lady busy when shes not making sandwiches and pouring coffee...

[Bonjoy]

Whilst you are in the Gaule area go do Fluid Magnetique, slopey technical brilliance. One of the best in the forest.

[a dense loner]

i have never met you nic but i know you won't be able to span la gaulle. i can offer no suggestions on probs cos people will say they're piss after being given the beta. the sitter to iceberg at isatis is good for stumps and is a bit slopey, tho i gayly crimp the sloper

[Dolly]

There is some very good bouldering at Rumney and also some within the city limits in a park - about 45 mins from downtown on the train. Its not great but there are a few good problems. Also a buildering circuit on the flyover on the way to the Baseball ground.

[Huffy]

have done La Gaulle ss, is solid 7c+.
Seen some v.strong albatros spaned folk fail.
I think you could span it tho Nik, jus pull the right face!

modulor at haute plains is good 7b

[Bonjoy]

Where abouts at Haute plain is Modulor?

[nik at work]

Cheers for the continuing supply of information.

I'll make sure I pack my angry eyes Huffy...

[dave]

modulor is at franchard sablons, in the main area, near to that desperate 7a slab.

[Bonjoy]

Looked it up on bleau.com, it looks good, very like La Gaule, monkey up a an overhaging fridge style.

[crello]

have done La Gaulle ss, is solid 7c+.

It's v. very reachy but so sweet, needs to be mint conditions too 7C in guide...

[Huffy]

Yeah, stiffest C in font that :wink:

make sure the L toe hook is firing if i remember correctly for Modulor. Whilst you in that area Http.bloc (7c) is a really nice line too - much bigger than you think its gonna be and do-able static with right footwork.
Symbiose (sp?) (7c) at 95.2
Matiere Grise (7c) at Drei Zinnen

Onde de Choc (7b) apremont

[dave]

onde de cock is superb.