[Banana finger]

Hiya, i feel a bit of a punter begging for beta   but does anyone have some crafty tricks they could share concerning shit/piss at higa tor. Went on piss last winter n crused it........tried shit this avo & was schooled by it! can't remember the way i lurched for the final sloper (the go again off sloper move) i.e. where i had my feet. Any advice greatfully recieved

[r-man]

Try this for size:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=4646&highlight=piss

[Nibile]

i cant remember exactly but think i did it with left foot very high, rocking over and going to the good hold deep with left hand, right hand on sloper fully locked off.

[a dense loner]

you wasn't to know nibile. who showed you the prob? will have their heads on a plate :wink:

[Nibile]

heh, i remember that day very well.
after a huge english breakfast at a friends place (where me and my friend stayed for 12 days...so beware offering hospitality...) we went to higgar tor, warmed up, and were punched by freezing wind, the sky covered in dark clouds. not a single raindrop falled, as we fought ourselves up.
bliss.

[Jim]

I think Dense means, like every good problem should be, this is an eliminate. ie no shelf out left for feet/heels

[Nibile]

what shelf? i used no shelves.

[Bonjoy]

I read nib's beta as being a rockover on the nose with right hand on the RH sloper, which is pure as you can get really.

[a dense loner]

that is as pure as you can get if that was the case, i read it like a deep lock rocking over on the left foot hold

[Jim]

I read nib's beta as being a rockover on the nose with right hand on the RH sloper, which is pure as you can get really.

on on earth can you get into that position???

[Johnny Brown]

Agreed - sounds unlikely. Any pics Nibile?

[saltbeef]

look out nibile the crag police is onto you!

[bigphil]

To be fair to Nibile, I watched Northumberland Andy do just that move, left foot smeared on the edge of nose, deep lock with right arm on upper sloper and reaching for the top.  There was no use of the shelf.  T'was pure as the driven snow that stopped me from crossing the snake this morning.

[Bonjoy]

El nibbo is clearly  quite stumpy and this sequence probably suits his build.

[Jim]

can I get this correct. your match on the nose, go to sloper holds up and right with RH, then put Left foot by left hand on nose and rock over on it???  :shock:
I will pay good money to see someone do that

Edit: not meaning to sound like crag police but I have tried this problem for many years and there are 3 sequences, one of which is cheating. This isn't one of the other two. Just making sure wires are not crossed somewhere. I'll try and look for a picture

[Bonjoy]

Only Smarties have the answer

[a dense loner]

in your world jon this is probably true

don't listen to us idiots nibile :wink:

[Nibile]

next time ill campus to be sure!!!  :wink:

[Nibile]

and anyway i was looking for pics either, to see if i used a banned hold, but seems its not a very pictured problem. maybe cos of the name? even in hard grit i cant see the entire boulder, when ben tries it and falls in the bushes...

[Nibile]

ohh, now i reckon!!!
its all a nice trick to have me come back north soon!!! cheers guys, i appreciate it alot.
i mean seriously, i left so much unfinished business. is it climbable lets say in july?

[a dense loner]

good lord no. july is for magic grades or maybe rocklands

[dave]

even in hard grit i cant see the entire boulder, when ben tries it and falls in the bushes...

thats rich heap!