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Beta for Sherpa (Read 2064 times)

T.H.

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Beta for Sherpa
January 15, 2006, 07:43:42 pm
I couldn't quite work out how to get into the mono.  Is it just a bit of a yard across, or is there some faggotry involved?

I'm a short arse, so Beta from Mr. Littefair would be handy.

Ru

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#1 Beta for Sherpa
January 15, 2006, 08:11:22 pm
I didn't actually do this due to feeling crap, but I did all the hard bit from the pod to the lip in a one-er but didn't have the juice to finish it that day from the back - basically I'm trying to say my beta is sound - I used the same sequence as Stu did...

You don't go into the mono at all on the easy sequence. From the big undercut pod we went left hand two finger pocket, heel-toe in pod, rh into undercut, bump left into a damp, uncomfortable pod/crack, now cut loose and spin 90 degree to the left, and walk both feet high into the crack and jam 'em in. Now bring your rh into the two finger pocket, bounce left hand along into an undercut, take your right foot out of the crack, and pivot off your left foot jam to cross over with your right hand to a reasonable three finger edge, then keep hanging and get the massive jug in the crack with your left. You can easily span out to the lip from this. The crux is getting your left foot jammed in well, and numerous attempts failed with victory in sight when your foot would eject its-self from the crack unexpectedly. 7c/+ this sequence, video here, but this guy crosses straight through to the three finger edge pinch from the uncomfortable pod/crack without bumping his left first to the undercut.
http://bleau.info/ouest/1490.html

Stu Littlefair

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#2 Beta for Sherpa
January 16, 2006, 11:00:30 am
what that man said.

T.H.

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#3 Beta for Sherpa
January 17, 2006, 11:49:14 am
Cheers,

will print off the beta and fall off it lots next time I go to Font.

unclesomebody

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#4 Beta for Sherpa
January 21, 2006, 10:54:04 am
no idea what the mono is for! went and had a quick blast in the dark but it was wet (didn't do it). Definitely seemed like a softy, and probably 7c. I imagine a sequence with the mono would probably be 8a!  

I worked out the same sequence so I think it seems a fairly obvious way. Best of luck!

 

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