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Recommend overhanging 7b(ish) problems Font (Read 6639 times)

dave

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re gite cleaning - we once got stung for it cos we had mopped the bathroom floor and by the time the woman came round it hand't dried yet. no shit. basically if the owner is dishonest then they can just screw you out of more money if then feel the need to on a whim, especially if none of you speak fluent french to argue, safe in the knowledge that virtually no foreigners are going to bother to write and complain once they get home. basically if the gite owner gets up one morning and fancies taking £100 (orwhatever the deposit is) off you just cos they feel like it then they will, simple as that. if they do this every week of the year to every party they're looking at making a tidy five grand on top of whatever they usually earn. greedy onion-chomping mutherfukkaz.

some gite owners on the other hand will bring yo free bottles of local wine, lets you sleep visitors on the floor, and turn a blind eye when you set fire to the chimney etc etc.

squeek

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Quote from: "a dense loner"
the roads been closed for (at least) nearly a year. yes its still possible to use them things below your hips to get to it, an agonizing 10 min stroll. nice work on them probs squeek, except for magic bus which is just getting a rather large barrel n scraping the bottom of it, plus you cannot get 7b for the flakes :wink:


10 minutes at normal pace, at your walking to Stirrup stones pace?  ;)
Last time I went to Apremont the roads were open and didn't know they'd been shut, so we retreated to Bas Cuvier to lie on our mats in the sun in a last day slump.

I wanted to do Magic bus becuase I didn't do it last time I went and we were going to Buthiers anyway to have a look at a few other things like Mongolito and Strappal.

The flakes used to get british 7a in one guide (apparantly), so by taking font 7b I'm pretty much undergrading it anyway!  :)

a dense loner

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if you're allergic to dogs don't spend the night in an extortionate hotel in the lakes with your bird n a dog. feel free to misinterpret that...

sto

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On L'Oblique, a local told me that the 7a starts sitting with hands on ledge basically, and the 7a+ starts lying down under the roof with hands in crack. One of my favorite problems, it's got it all: undercut, left knee bar, right knee bar, pinch, dyno, mantle and thank god pocket.

dave

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whatup niggaz

couple of more nice tings found this last weekend in font. A gudgeon is surplomb do coquille assis at haute plains (out the back of pissatis, 2min walk). big moves on decent big comfy rugosity things, big footholds good landing. the standup is an equally good 6c+. also head down for 1minute up the main path left of there just round past that massive highball metropolis is a roof with a supoyb 7a that takes a flake line in the roof (start right at the back where its slopey, optional kneebar) then classic heeltoebar sloper finish. its in the 7+8 guide as the Rh variation to "Ah! plus facile" (which looks much wacker).

a dense loner

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this thread has suddenly descended into sub 7b's

 

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