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The Devil may be in the details but God hands them out n'all (Read 3528 times)

Greg C

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Here is Mr. G's low down on what he's been doing of late...

"Stanworth
Un-named V13
Climb the slab between African Queen and Stranded Passenger starting left of
centre and trending right to an undercut and higher again to an obvious good
hold. Step left from this good hold to gain and finish up African Queen and
avoid the grass cornice.
Trowbarrow
Un-named V10/11
Start in the centre of the slab left of Coral Sea and follow holds trending
slightly rightwards to an obvious layaway. From this step back left to poor
holds in the centre of the slab and make a tricky move to reach good edges
just below Coral Sea Direct. Reach up to Coral Sea Direct and either reverse it or Coral Sea, or top out.
(Note: It is significantly easier to reach up and right to Coral Sea Direct
from the layaway rather than step back into the middle of the slab however
this "cop out version" proves a less satisfactory solution).
Farleton
Pandemonium V11, done as a boulder problem with mats.
Taken By Surprise V?, also done as a boulder problem i.e. solo with mats."

andy_e

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busy man, still not done that project at trowbarrow shelter stone?

Greg C

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No, but there was chalk on it yesterday  :shock:

r-man

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    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
How about the trad? Rumour was he repeated Toxic Bilberries as well as some other stuff? Any more details?

andy_e

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Quote from: "r-man"
How about the trad? Rumour was he repeated Toxic Bilberries as well as some other stuff? Any more details?

didn't he do that ages ago? or was that gigantic?

saltbeef

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who cares...

Greg C

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Quote
who cares...


Well a fair few people by all acounts.  :?

I don't care about loads of posts on these forums but I don't right that after every one.

Johnny Brown

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Is the stanworth line the one every lancs local has been going on about for years? "Best/ hardest unclimbed slab in britain'' etc...? Sounds mega, how high is it?

Nigel

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Yeah that's the one, you know the "Ian Vickers could only stand on it in two places" (?) slab of legend. I don't know for sure how high it is, but its not short, pretty highball to the end of the hard climbing then a bit of easy dirty soloing to get out apparently. I always thought they were going to fill Stanworth in though weren't they? Obviously they can't now that Britain's (the world's?) hardest slab is there. Of all the places.  :?

r-man, yes he did do Toxic Bilberries and Vortex aswell. Andi it was Gigantic he did ages ago; he couldn't have done Toxic "ages" ago because Parry only did it in the last few years. Knowing Gaskins' habit of having top-roped most "hard" (what, UK 7a? Path!) grit routes, he probably did it on a rope sixty years ago...

squeek

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I was told it's got 2 VERY hard moves from someone who has been on it and aint no slouch.

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Obviously they can't now that Britain's (the world's?) hardest slab is there.


I reckon there might be some contenders in Font.

Impressive to see a wad who does ridiculously hard steep problems do a very hard slab too.

andy_e

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soloing african queen( the crack to the left) it's easy to see there anit no bloody holds on the right!

 

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