UKBouldering.com

New route at Almscliff (Read 3255 times)

Pantontino

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3327
  • Karma: +97/-1
    • www.northwalesbouldering.com
New route at Almscliff
October 05, 2005, 02:21:37 pm
Forgot to mention that Steve Dunning climbed the faint hanging groove to the right of Big Greeny.

A beautiful line for sure.

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#1 New route at Almscliff
October 05, 2005, 03:19:38 pm
I heard that.  Didn't think there were many obvious lines left up there.  How hard did Steve think it was?

Stubbs

  • Guest
#2 New route at Almscliff
October 05, 2005, 07:31:29 pm
He won't be drawn to say anything other than english 6c, maybe E6, at the moment, but it looked HARD  :shock: very small crimps above the obvious shallow pocket.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11481
  • Karma: +702/-22
#3 New route at Almscliff
October 05, 2005, 08:27:15 pm
If it weighs in at E6 6c it must be height dependent. Some highly trained shorties have been on that for years and got nowhere...

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#4 New route at Almscliff
October 06, 2005, 08:37:54 am
That man is too strong.  A fine effort by the sounds of it.  I'll have a look at it (from the ground of course) if I'm up that way this weekend.

Control freak

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 504
  • Karma: +12/-1
    • nick fletcher photography
#5 New route at Almscliff
October 06, 2005, 09:32:22 am
Quote
If it weighs in at E6 6c it must be height dependent. Some highly trained shorties have been on that for years and got nowhere...


Get em in early... :(

Stubbs

  • Guest
#6 New route at Almscliff
October 06, 2005, 09:36:29 am
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
it must be height dependent.


Not that i remember, didn't look too reachy, Dave Buchanan almost had it on a toprope, and he isn't that tall.

Stu Littlefair

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1842
  • Karma: +285/-2
    • http://www.darkpeakimages.co.uk
#7 New route at Almscliff
October 06, 2005, 12:59:24 pm
It is a pretty height dependent line. That pocket is *just* past the limit of my lock, meaning that you have to throw for it. I managed the line two or three times on a top-rope (nearly 8 years ago now!), but never strung it together on lead. Steady away after the pocket.

I was always going to give it E6 7a, but E6 6c sounds more like it as Steve said he didn't really have any problems with the moves. Good effort by Steve though - not quite the only decent line left at the crag, but certainly the most feasible of those remaining. Certainly gives quality climbing so it ought to see some repeat action this winter.

Stubbs

  • Guest
#8 New route at Almscliff
October 07, 2005, 09:25:11 am
After having watched the footage back last night and furhter to my earlier inaccurate comments, the method Steve used was height dependant i.e kept low foot lock in, with better of two slopers in left hand, came over for pocket with right. Has decided on a grade of E7 6c/7a to represent the difficulties of using the non height dependant sequence.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11481
  • Karma: +702/-22
#9 New route at Almscliff
October 07, 2005, 10:24:42 am
of course i was forgetting uk 7a isn't widely accepted as even existing in yorkshire...

Stubbs

  • Guest
#10 New route at Almscliff
October 07, 2005, 10:52:09 am
Uk 7a? You try finding Font 8a in Yorkshire, like hen's teeth i tell you...

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal