[dave]

Just a bit of fun  :D

[Bubba]

Really depends on my mood - currently a smeary step but all of them have their place...well, except for the gnarly pockets which fill me with fear  :wink:

Now, does a problem exist that contains all of these options mixed into one for that ultimate bouldering experience?

[dobbin]

Or, for that matter, can anyone think of an actual problem with your favourite move on?

The move on Pinch 2 is pretty good fun, I like the move that is Pete's PowerPull, but I think that is only me gloating still!

My current fave move is putting your foot on your hand. Very entertaining.

[dave]

Can't really narrow it down to a single move, cso there so many good moves out there, but here are a few gems,

move to the lip on The Pinch, sheep pen/going for the lip on Pogle's Wood SS (its essentially the same move)

move to the lip on "steve's roof" (slapping into a simultaneous full-body strech toe-hook and lip hold)

going over for the big jug on the dog's arse roof (cul de chien)

going for pocket on the "B9" arete-pinch dyno burbage north (last move of jason's undercling)

landing buckstone with left hand

[dobbin]

going over for the big jug on the dog's arse roof (cul de chien)

Good call dude - that is a cool move.

[Nigel]

What is Steve's Roof? Is it the sit down to the arete problem jusr right of Jason's Undercling? If so yeah, minted move! Move to the pocket on Jason's is a boring static reach, nowhere near as good?! Favourite move at the minute is a rockover onto a heel-toe of a fat pinch, miles out to a meaty backhand into an undercut. In a mates garage though, so I won't count it...

[dave]

Nige, yeah its what I call the "sit down into the B8 right of the B7 arete problem" (dunno if steve did it first?), but the same move is involved no matter where you finish. We go out into the undercut on jasons, slap sidways up right for the crimp, then the mint move, then finish right. I think the arete has also been done starting at the bottom then going into a horrid crimp undercut right of the start then up (I think Mark or someone mentioned this on the old board?).

Which side of the arete do you finish up?

[Nigel]

I finished up the arete, the one with gnarly pinches on (doesn't use the jugs out right). Sounds to me like you haven't found the key to the sit-start! I don't actually use either the Jason's undercling undercut or the "horrid crimp" one. In fact I don't use anything. One word - kneebar!!! Mind you, I showed a few people it and they moaned about something called "pain". I think they mainly climbed routes though.

[dave]

Do you mean the right hand side of the arete then? I never looked for a knee-bar there cos i use the same start as i do on jasons, i.e. a left-foot heel-toe (at the top of the little starting arete), which works easy for me cos i'm used to it.

We also tried getting the base of the B7 arete (the good holds) then making a biiiig span out left for the edge/pinch on jasons to finish slapping RH up the B7 arete, cos this from standing is a nice problem, its just a long stretch to get onto the jasons hold from the good holds!


When you say "Move to the pocket on Jason's is a boring static reach", the way i do it is LH on arete, RH on pinch, LF on lip and slap/pop up with LH, which is a bonza move!

[nik at work]

My fave imaginary move would have to be a high step smeary job.
As for on real problems:
Slapping to the shit gaston on Snatch
Matching on the two chipped holds on Submergence
Every single move on my boulder problem at Rivelin Quarries
Rocking up onto the slab to the right of the chipped steps on the big boulder in Rockhall garden at the Roaches

[dave]

Forgive my ignorance, but when you say "the two chipped holds on Submergence" i take it you mean the ones next to each other you use as footholds on the B6? I didn't know they were chipped (you sure?) - you live and learn. Anyway i was trying it not-matching..!?!

[nik at work]

Well the left one defo looks chipped to me - albeit ages ago. Maybe not - dunno, but yeah thats the move.
How do you try that move?
The way I do it is get my left hand on the left hold, move my feet across so that my right foot is on the foothold furthest left and then use my left foot pushing up against the underside of the roof. Then bring my right hand accross to the hold next to the left hand. Most people I have seen do the move leave both feet on the back wall but cos I am short I can't do that without swinging off, my way is a bit more balanced and controlled and works for tallies as well as shorties.
Ace problem...

[dave]

The way I try it is getting the LH "chipped" hold, then on one of the slopers over right theres a diagonal seam/crimp, which i then bite on very hard with right hand. Get feet sorted in a kind of dropknee/egyptian and try and slap LH into the slot over left. I've hit the slot numerous time but never got fingers in it right. This is the way Scouse does it, works for him apparently. Your method sounds interesting though, will try it next time, never thought of getting RF way over left - thats good knowledge..

[nik at work]

Yeah, I started trying the egyptian stylee way but due to my dwafish stature my body is too far right so when I let go with my right I swing down and left which pulls me off. With the left leg way out left and pushing up it kind of couteracts this swing and gives you way more time to get your right across, it's still tricky mind...

[nik at work]

Dave is this the way you were trying it:



I have done it this way but it is very burly, with your right foot where my left is in the photo and your left foot under the roof it is much easier and more controlled.

[dave]

No, feet in the same place but sort of facing t'other way and slapping with left hand again into slot. Right hand is crimping the tits off that little seam on the sloper. I've nearly managed it this way, and as i say it works for scouse apparently.

[nik at work]

WOW
You must have v. v. v. long arms.
That reach is enormous.
Well if you can reach that I guess it will be the easiest way cos the hold is a good 'un but it just seems unfair :evil: Damn my stumpy arms and my lack of growth hormone through puberty...

[nik at work]

Hey but that also means you miss out on the nicest move of that problem.
Ha-ha - sucker....


(I really should get over this petty height jealousy )

[dave]

To be honest i don't think i've got long arms cos most of my height (6'+) comes from my legs. If you think its unfair, just think i probably weigh at least 2 stone more than you.......Anyway its all swings and roundabouts!

Just need it to cool down so i can try it again without losing skin.

[dontfollowme]

I did a problem today at the plas y brenin bolder (n wales) where I had to get my left foot v high (about shoulder height) so i could move upwards off the sloper my left hand was on. It was just a great move. It was a bit of an eliminate but it was still a good problem.